RZ/RD 350 & Misc. 2-Stroke Tech BBS

Try the "glassdude" on eBay. I'm not sure if he makes a tailpiece for an RZ, but I know he does make the other body parts. They are made out of very thick and well done fiberglass. He's a little slow on turnaround, but quality and fitment is great, also so is his $$

waltmil wrote:My 2 cents, get a LiFePo battery. They are small and light, mine weighs 1.15 lb and have amazing energy and fast charge. I am using the std charging system and have had it about a month. No comparison with anything else I have ever used.

Yep, had mine for 3 years now, no problems.

Congrats on the job Motoholic71.

Pre ignition will occur, but is not limited to the following conditions: lean fuel mixture= burns hotter, and has less cooling properties due to less fuel, and can cause Pre ignition due to hot surfaces, usually the spark plug. To much spark advance= to much burn completion occurs before piston reac...

Definitely replace the seals, and coolant o-ring. Also check the crank for tolerance. I'd also give the shift forks a good look over also. And of course, check everything while apart. Crank seals are a must, unless you want airleaks/transmission oil consumption.

Get your self a DIY zinc plater and some green oxide. Soak your fasteners in muriatic acid and re-plate. Then dip them in the green oxide for a factory finish. You could use any color oxide but green is what the factory used. There's plenty of tutorials online showing how to do it.

Interesting, thanks!

Tapatalk double posted.

Years ago, on another forum, I bought an rz engine from a newb... never saw the engine. I would have had appreciated some rules in place for people selling before I lost my money. Now I check people's post count and what kind of content is in their threads before I decide to buy. Lesson learned. I ...

Hmmm Jon, that's not the way I've seen "Boyesen" ports, the ones I've seen were a port that fed the transfers. Those feed into the cylinder, and look like they are in the ring gap zone. Not good....

Ok, I just wanted to make sure you were on the same page. I would hate for you have a problem! It seems like your understanding is good.

Yes, just be aware that 1200* is reference to wot nearing redline, it is NOT the temp you want at all throttle ranges and rpm ranges.

That's the way I see it too. I'm running in the 1220's with safe looking plugs, and happy with the power. But if I had factory support.... Hint hint Yamaha, I would love to accurately find the "End point" of these motors.

1250* is probably about right providing that you are in fact verifying with plug chops. If you have raised the compression (ie: milled the head, etc) be on the lookout for detonation. I had to retard the ignition, and go to a colder plug. But I am in California and we have crap gas. Detonation will ...

I would keep it under 1200*, I've ran hotter than that with no ill effects but I also established a baseline with plug chops. Aluminum starts to melt at around 1300*, so play it safe. Also temp can vary due to placement of probe, so I highly recommend plug chops along your jetting process. Also temp...