Carbon Fiber Wheels Question

[Smoker]

The only thing I can tell you is that my bike will only be used for short runs on roads I am familiar with as I am not willing to risk hitting a hole or bump in the road with these wheels. They do look cool as hell. My bike has the R6 swingarm conversion, modified tail section and one-off bodywork with the YPVS mounted in the head stay. I'm not sure what they would look like with the stock bodywork.

Are you running a 5.5 or 6.0 inch rear wheel, and does it have cush drive?

Did you do a 520 chain conversion, and how much clearance is there between the chain and frame?

Thanks!

[perryml]

I also wanted to mention that with the tires mounted I can pick the rear wheel up with two fingers. My bike probably weighs under 300lbs and should be good for around 120hp (BJ McDonald motor that I plan to use 34mm carbs on). I plan to mount carbon fiber front rotors and I am going to have the bodywork redone and fuel tank done in carbon fiber (or find an existing carbon fiber tank and fit it. Basically still looking for someone to do the work, but eventually I'll find someone. I don't recommend anyone do this as it has been a costly project which I probably won't recoup the investment (at this point its pride and stubbornness). This bike started with a guy named Rick Tarr and three owners later and ($$$) its almost finished.

Cut and paste this link to my site for photos with the wheels on my bike.

http://ahrmamx.com/RZ5005.html

[perryml]

The wheel is 180mm (standard R6 I think). I do have a cush drive 520 and RGV Steve fitted the wheels for clearance so you may want to get hold of him.

Mike

[gpaddict]

Not to go off topic, but those Scott boots made me chuckle at the memories. ......squeak squeak squeak

[Smoker]

Just to follow up - the wheels arrived yesterday.

Haven't took a close look yet, but they are true works of art.

And impossibly light.

[wolfgangh]

My bike probably weighs under 300lbs and should be good for around 120hp (BJ McDonald motor that I plan to use 34mm carbs on).

Hi Perryml,
what makes you believe the bike has 120 HP+? I doubt that with the engine setup I see on your pics (intake section / reed size). In my opinion and own experience with different engine tuners, including even people who worked on works-GP bikes, Even 120hp at the crank is hard to achieve and requires more than just pipes, porting and bigger carbs.
Dont be frustrated if it turns out less, 95-100 real RWHP is a really good number you should be happy with.

best regards

[perryml]

There's somewhere between 8-10K in this motor. I have receipt from BJ McDonald who did a lot of the motor work and he had it tuned for 116hp. Now, it may or may not do the 120hp, but 116hp was based on 28mm carbs, so between the larger 34's and free flowing filters it should make it (increased air makes a big difference). I'll definitey post the dyno results once I get it properly broken in. Also in terms of my intakes, they were cut off modified internally (RZ350). Here is list of what's in the motor:

Complete motor rebuild: 500cc V-twin 4 cylinder 2 stroke motor (powercoated)
- Cylinders ported, heads cut & re-chamfered, reed cages modified & stuffed, billet reed spacers, 1GE
ignition advanced by BJ MacDonald
- Carrillo forged precision connecting rods (Correction Falicon balanced)
- Motor blue printed
- Jolly Moto GP pipes with carbon fiber silencers
- Four 34mm Mikuni VM round slide carburetors
- YPVS rerouted inside the upper fairing (YPVS also modified)
- Aftermarket clutch plates
- Pod filters
- Oil pump removed (motor now premixed to save weight)
- Over sized radiator (for increased water flow)

[Andrew]

... and 105 octane race fuel with jets you can put your hand through

.... only pulling your leg.

It's just bikers in general always seem to add a few more bhp to the figures, and then it goes from the crank to the back wheel. and after a few beers, it gets even worse

[wolfgangh]

Hi Perry,
if I compare the engine we are currently building with your setup, I should get min. 130 hp then. I realistically expect slightly more than 100hp at the rear wheel, and would be more than happy with that.
I am not blaming you at all for your optimism, I only want to make sure other RD/RZ friends on this board don´t get frustrated when they have around real 90hp at the wheel, which is already a very good state of tune in my opinion. Together with weight savings and chassis improvements thats alot of fun.

[BRIAN TURFREY]

Hello Wolfgang,
Yep, you are about correct with your HP's #'s. What was stock, 72?
110+

Did all your pictures at the ranch come out good?

Yep, wine is good for me and the wife. I told king to,,,, he wanted a case, not a bottle? I told him to piss off, bottle is good.

It was good to see you.

[Smoker]

Hi, Brian-

Been a long time admirer of your work, and literally dream of having a set of your pipes on one of my project bikes. I don't know if it's possible, but wanted you to know.

-Pete

[BRIAN TURFREY]

Hello Pete, Thank You.
Anything is possible for pipes. Don't really like doing them for "stock" RZ 500, cause as most know the top pipes must be around 100 to 105mm dia to fit in the bodywork and that's not so good for power? Will do them all day long if there is a "mod" subframe so you don't mess up the bodywork. I am in the middle of making a "mod" subframe kit complete with pipes, top/bottom set, that all someone will have to do is cut there subframe off, and weld on the taps i supply and bolt on the complete deal. Kinda simple really, and you still retain stock bodywork, everything and now better straighter/bigger pipes. Some people may not want to do that to the chassis as they wish to keep it "all" stock.
Anyway, e-mail is, BTURFREY@AOL.COM

[Smoker]

Brian-

I'd be happy to send you an RZ500 frame if it would help. I'm all for the subframe mod.

Hope the subframe is the same for the RZV.