Head refinishing advice plz?

[2bang]

Hope this is the right forum!

I have a spare head that I sent out for cutting/etc...
The finish on the visible end (top) has gotten pretty crummy... (the business end is GORGEOUS!)
The rest of the bike (and original head) are pretty mint.... so I'd like to do something about
the worked head I just got back...

Can anyone suggest a way to improve the finish?
Some way to remove the yucky top layer, at least partly, and repainting (epoxy paint?)
Not sure where to start.... any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

[South_Oz]

Would vapour blasting get it off? Then a fresh coat of paint.

Dave

[JonW]

you can get it off with paint stripper of to do a nicer job vapour as Dave says.

[75RD350rider]

I can bead blast it for you if you like. I get good results.
http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=49" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[tacky1]

I can bead blast it for you if you like. I get good results.
http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=49" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thats some nice work, Looks really good..

[2bang]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Sounds like a lot of work... and/or cash..
Wondering if there's not a way to just take the marred top layer off, just to smooth and prep for paint?
Also, can anyone recommend a particular paint? Preferably that'd give a result similar to original.

Real nice work Tim! Gonna send a PM..

[Questo vecchio rz]

Your a little vauge about exactly what you want, so I'll assume its the existing 32 year old paint. If you just want
it to look better follow these steps...Its as cheap and easy as you can get.
0.) (optional) strip it w chemical paint stripper.
1.) Clean & Scub it good w laundry detergent using a green scrubbie pad, if paint is flaking off sand lt with 320 sandpaper then wash it again and let it dry.
2.) Buy $6.00 can of self etching engine primer/paint black in either satin or gloss.
3.) (optional)Cure it in a toaster oven on "low" heat for 15 -20 min.
4.) (optional) sans lightly /clean then topcoat the engine enamel w black epoxy spray paint folloed again w low heat curing.

Thats as cheap as you can go, you can have it powdercoated as well, in addition to many other ways.
Once you do this your headbolts,radiator clamps & hose will look old. So Unless you have a restoration going on, just go the easy route.

[75RD350rider]

Thanks for the kind words.

[2bang]

You're right.... that was a bit vague.. I'll try to clarify.
It IS the original 32 yr old paint. Its pretty rough.
The rest of the bike is fairly mint.... so its rather, a matter of bringing
a spare head (sent out for machining) up to the level of the rest of the bike.
Not a super-pristinie custom bike, hence powder coating would be to costly
at ths point.
Lots of cash is going into all the other nescessary items, and just getting it running
(yet looking decent) is the main goal right now.. But since its a spare head that saw lots of use, I don't want to bolt it on causing an appearance downgrade.
So yes, I guess its basically a restoration.

Your replies have helped me realize that the current finish is unsalvagable, but that maybe just a "surface prep" then a layer of fresh paint might be good enough.
Can't hurt to try that route, i guess..... but opions are much valued!

The green scrubbie/detergent suggestion is very helpful... and I think I'll do that first no matter.... see what that gets me.
Hopefully a good surface to shoot a layer of fresh paint over..
Then a coat of the black epoxy paint and toaster-oven curing..... which brings 2 questions to mind:
Is their a particular brand/source anyone could recommend for the paint?
Was the original paint considered a gloss or a satin finish?

Btw Questo.... I'm saving your other steps for future reference...
Either if the above fails and I have to take it down to metal, or for future projects!
(so thanks!)

I probably should've included a pic or 2 for clarity...
So here they are.
Pix taken before I cleaned it up a fair amount with a brillo pad/soap.
(better and cleaner now, but still awful looking)



And one of the underside.... just for the sake of Motor-Porn:

[Questo vecchio rz]

I'm certainlly no rattle can fan w non catalyzed paints. But it has its place and reasons. Most of it is woefully subpar for longevity and durability, but for your head the rattle can "Engine Enamel or Epoxy" should work well. There are alot of choices out there PJ1 used to have a decent product, but many things have changed EPA wise. I've had good results w engine enamel & epoxy. I wouldnt get too hung up on choices even a gloss will dull down a little w use. When using a toaster oven, make sure it relativley low heat say 150°-175° unless the instructions dictate another temp & time..
Also when cleaning get in all the hard to reach areas w a stiff toothbrush especually indide the lettering. Before final painting, Wet sand the aluminuum around the lettering w a small block of wood" sanding block" 400-then 800 then 1000 sand in one direction or whatever you find works for you. Use a small paint brush to carefully paint the recessed lettering dont worry about getting too much paint on the sanded flat aluminum, after its dry just sand w the 1000 again in one direction until it looks nice & clean. Then just use a piece of 2" masking tape i like (3m blue) to cover the entire YPVS surface and trim off 3 overlapping sides w a fresh sharp razor blade then paint the entire head. You should also do this to all the exposed head bolts etc..masking tape & sharp blade w carefull trimming.
Its solvent based paint so dont worry about pulling tape while paint is wet, you can wait till its tacky or dry before removing tape.

I'ts pretty basic and easy especially when the head is off. Even if your not familiar with painting etc.. one should still have few problems. You can do all of this for close to $20 bucks !
Also in the future DO NOT use harsh chemicals, abrasives or solvents, degreasers etc... to clean . rattle can paint will NOT withstand these. If cleaning is required use only mild dish/car detegent & soft cloth and it should continue to look good for a long time.

[2bang]

Wow! That tells me everything I need to know.. Thanks!!

PJ1
http://pj1.com/i-19004781-pj1-fast-blac ... black.html

pj1.jpg (9.15 KiB) Viewed 4024 times

While I've painted a few things in my day, I'm not knowledgeable about the subject.
Your reply is practically a tutorial... very helpful.. This is basically the procedure I'll do.
I'll post results here when I have them.
Maybe someone else will find it helpful too.
Thanks again!

PS: While we're on the subject.... and I should probably start a new thread about it...
What about painting expansion chambers?
Got any tips?

[Questo vecchio rz]

Expansion chambers, alot depends upon condition and how much you want to invest. Also as in all painting, preparation is important. There are many choices out there that are inexpensive PJ1hi temp, VHT hi temp, BBQ black hi temp etc.. These will allow you easy touchup in the future. If your goal is a perfect high end $$ finish, hi temp ceramics and powder coating may suit you here is a link if your intrested in that route. http://www.prismaticpowders.com/news/ar ... w-website/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In either case proper prep is most important, rule #1 is rust is your enemy all rust 100% MUST be removed. The most efficient method is media/sand blasting it down to bare metal especially around the spigots thats the area thats quite hard to maintain due to the high exhuast temps and its often rusted. Make sure you seal pipes on each end if bladting, NO sand in the pipes! On old used pipes its also a good time to degrease/clean out the pipes internally. (before paint). Google pipe cleaning decoking. If you opt for ceramic or hi temp powdercoating, most shops will do everything clean, blast,paint, cure.
For most, the rattle can budget method works reasonably well so I'll run you through basics.
Start with:
1.) Removing the silencers and spigots ( if equipped).
2.) Clean Degrease outside w green scubbie & brush.
( optional)decoke/degrease internally same w silencers if desired.
3.) Have pipes & spigots manifolds(if equipped) sand/media blasted. (If you cant blast them) & they are in fair shape, you can strip paint w chemical stripper and lots of sanding and wire brushing down to bare metal. Get ALL the rust off!
IMO its easier to find a shop to blast them.
4.) As soon as possible paint them, start with a wipe down cleaning with some acetone and a microfiber cloth, hang the pipes up so you can move around them and apply 2-4 coats of whatever paint you choose, NOTE* its very hard to stop most any rattle can paints from burning off in the spigot area due to the hi heat., make sure you apply 2-4 nice coats in that area at a minimum, its about all you can do. (some paints specify curing) which is hard due to the size, youd have to install them and let the bike cure them.
4.) Reinstall your silencers (polish them) if there that style I also like stainless spigot spring's , if equipped.
Its also pretty basic, prep is the most important thing, again rattle can paint is good & bad. Good as its convenint and allows quick easy t/u and its avail in high heat applications. Bad is for exhuast pipes its hard to cure and rattle can paint is more susceptible to gas/ solvent oil damage etc.. But most of us have good results with this method. Also I'll add Ive been around painting my entire life, I dont know any old painters (WEAR A MASK!) a simple low buck $ one is fine. Just dont breathe dust nor paint mist...simple.
Good luck, youll do just fine!

[2bang]

Wow once again!
Thats a whole tutorial..
Now I wish I had started a new thread for that...

I copied it to a text file for future reference.

I have painted chambers before.
Rattle can.
Came out well enough, but predictably didn't last very long.
This all is making me think I'll do the quick 'n dirty version that you laid out,
just to get the bike running and looking decent, then later on have them powder
coated or whatever, professionally.

Way back in the day, a buddy convinced me to try the then-new process of ceramic
coating an aftermarket header for my 1st gen GSXR.
I then sprayed (rattle can) "Kal Gard Header Coat" (great EPA-killed product)
and it came out great.
A kinda semi-gloss silverish look.. buddy sprayed BBQ black over that for a trad look,
but I left it alone.
STILL looks great today!!! Even the headpipes up by the port exits.

Thanks so much again, for all the info, and the food for thought.

[75RD350rider]

I used vht 1000 deg on my RD and it is the best paint I have ever used...

[2bang]

Thanks for the input!