straight cut drive gears

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ax-racing
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#31 Post by ax-racing » Fri Aug 01, 2008 4:04 am

Hi helmanns

ratio is 21/60 and gears come from raw industrial toothed gear
tha i have lathe, milled, drilet and heat threated
Alex

Picobello
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#32 Post by Picobello » Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:30 pm

Alex,

Triggered by you dry clutch conversion I'm starting my own dry clutch project on a RZ350 engine. I need to keep the kickstarter so I probably have to make a longer gear-shaft to make the clutch basket fit on the spacer that wil be in between the primary gear and the clutch basket. The spacer will seal of the inside of the engine (with a seal of course) from the clutch on the outside of the engine.

I will try to find some more people who are interested in this conversion. If I can find another four people that want this conversion done, my friend can make a small serie of longer gear-shafts (hardened and grinded) for about 150 euro per piece (ex shipping). If he only needs to make one the price will be much higher.

Anyone else interested in a dry clutch conversion?
You don't have to be afraid of the 100 horses underneath the seat of a motorbike, but beware of the donkey that's driving it......

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#33 Post by ax-racing » Fri Aug 08, 2008 3:24 am

Good Thing Picobello :smt002

when is done, can you show me the drawing of conversion ?

in my project, kickstarter was not necessary , and with shortened
crankcase it was impossible to fit in. for this reason i don't
study the primary gear to have this parts. perhaps is not
impossible to do, also with stock shaft.

another way can be to find RZ racing dry clutch set and try to fit on
rd engine :smt001
Alex

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#34 Post by Picobello » Fri Aug 08, 2008 6:41 pm

I will post her on the forum the progress that I make.

Later I will send you the details.


Pico
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Smoker
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#35 Post by Smoker » Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:11 pm

Picobello wrote:I will try to find some more people who are interested in this conversion. If I can find another four people that want this conversion done, my friend can make a small serie of longer gear-shafts (hardened and grinded) for about 150 euro per piece (ex shipping). If he only needs to make one the price will be much higher.

Anyone else interested in a dry clutch conversion?
I'm interested! :smt006

I may not be able to fit the Ducati clutch, so I may have to go with a high performance RZ clutch.


Alex- could you post the outside diameter (O.D.) of the Ducati Clutch? Or the necessary inside diameter (I.D.) for the cup? Thanks!

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#36 Post by ax-racing » Thu Sep 11, 2008 3:17 am

O.D. Ducati is 154 mm
internal cup is 156 mm, i have no more space to
insert a bigger cup to give more clearance between two parts.

the TZ cover solution are different, cover is almost flat
and all basket rotate ouside of it.
Alex

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#37 Post by Smoker » Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:11 pm

ax-racing wrote:O.D. Ducati is 154 mm
internal cup is 156 mm, i have no more space to
insert a bigger cup to give more clearance between two parts.
I can't go that big because I'm using a different side casing.

May I ask - how thick are the walls of your clutch cup?

If I use a Banshee clutch (149mm O.D.). I MIGHT be able to make the cup 2mm thick on the sides, but I'm not sure. I would definitely not have more than 1mm of clearance (just like yours)!

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#38 Post by ax-racing » Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:00 pm

1mm clearance only because i have minimum space
to insert and weld cup on OEM cover

after working it the wall thickness is under 2 millimeter
about 1,75.

yes si so thin but the soace is only this, with barnett 149 mm
and stock cover you have a lot of working space :smt001
Alex

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#39 Post by Smoker » Sat Sep 13, 2008 11:04 pm

ax-racing wrote:after working it the wall thickness is under 2 millimeter
about 1,75.

yes si so thin but the soace is only this, with barnett 149 mm
and stock cover you have a lot of working space :smt001
The problem is I have a different cover - not OEM, so I have less room to work with. If I use the 149mm clutch, I will have almost identical specs as you (1mm clearance and less than 2mm per wall).

I'm still not sure it's possible to install the way I would like, or at all, using this cover. I'm going to keep measuring, though.

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#40 Post by ax-racing » Sun Sep 14, 2008 4:57 am

Ok Smoker, but if ypu have to cut, weld and remachining cover,
made this modify on OEM cover
al last will be remain only waterpump part of visible cover
(if you don't use autolube pump, ypu can cut all front wall
and eliminate cover)

after this modification the OEM cover became another
Alex

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hellmanns
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#41 Post by hellmanns » Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:49 am

I've got the powah!



Image



:smt006





:smt017, what's going to happen when the gear is 3 tooth longer, bigger than the stock one?


I found this link:
http://www.geocities.com/webbike2000/dicas/calcvelo.htm
yes, yes it's portuguese, but I think that you may know where to input your data... :smt003 mine gave me 233km/h with the primary at 2,538
Image
"...It's just like traveling on a plane, but, without that horrible meal... and with the window opened..."
(RD350 87')

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#42 Post by Picobello » Tue Dec 02, 2008 4:24 pm

Felipe,


Where is the rest of primary gear? You need the gear which is behind the clutch basket also. It is not going to work with the standard clutch basket gear.....
You don't have to be afraid of the 100 horses underneath the seat of a motorbike, but beware of the donkey that's driving it......

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#43 Post by hellmanns » Wed Dec 03, 2008 9:17 am

Picobello wrote:Felipe,


Where is the rest of primary gear? You need the gear which is behind the clutch basket also. It is not going to work with the standard clutch basket gear.....
it's with the bike, not at my place anymore... I'll post pics next sat. :smt002
Image
"...It's just like traveling on a plane, but, without that horrible meal... and with the window opened..."
(RD350 87')

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#44 Post by smurph » Wed Dec 03, 2008 2:06 pm

hellmanns wrote:what's going to happen when the gear is 3 tooth longer, bigger than the stock one?
If the drive gear is 3 teeth bigger, then that will raise the speed of the output shaft in relation to the crank. This means you can use a bigger rear sprocket on the rear. I would consider this a good benefit.

Steve
Fuel Injected RZ350

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#45 Post by hellmanns » Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:12 pm

smurph wrote:
hellmanns wrote:what's going to happen when the gear is 3 tooth longer, bigger than the stock one?
If the drive gear is 3 teeth bigger, then that will raise the speed of the output shaft in relation to the crank. This means you can use a bigger rear sprocket on the rear. I would consider this a good benefit.

Steve

Steve,

I was thinking that too because the sprocket carrier is so damn big and after the 4+ stroker future conv. I think that I'll need some crank speed... ;)

Do you know if exist the gear which drives the oil pump with straight tooth?
Image
"...It's just like traveling on a plane, but, without that horrible meal... and with the window opened..."
(RD350 87')

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