do you chat with NORBO?
HE,S got pipes & rearsets that you need to clear that swingarm.
a good M8 id say from my limited communications ive had with him.
i recently bought some pipes from NORTHERN IRELAND & I wanted some information on them & NORBO gave me the right answers .
i like to think he,s your go to man over in your part of the world
rdstars hybrid
Moderator: rztom
I havent, I will be building my own pipes and also hopefully wont be going down the GP style, I like the one off pipes that Seb had on his RD. Rearsets I wll hunt down on ebay, its got to be on a budjet and cannot aford new or from a breakers. I am the bargin hunter, lol.SCREAMER wrote:do you chat with NORBO?
HE,S got pipes & rearsets that you need to clear that swingarm.
a good M8 id say from my limited communications ive had with him.
i recently bought some pipes from NORTHERN IRELAND & I wanted some information on them & NORBO gave me the right answers .
i like to think he,s your go to man over in your part of the world
Steve a big "THANKYOU"RGVSteve wrote:rdstars,
Did the pictures help ?
I carnt believe you sent me them, trade secrets and all that, they are better than expected.
That was one idea that never even crossed my mind but looks cool and also keeps the clocks and headlight close in minimising the gaps without being able to see much cable/loom. Also leaves the forks on display.
I was almost going to cut some 14mm blocks as spacers for the original clamps and use them, but that would of probably marked the forks.
Nice one Steve.
Thanks Picobello, I do have that pic, got loads of pics saved, been talking on the phone with a local member who has done this and a few other conversions and also got someone local who is helping me with a few one off parts/spacers/etc.
I have almost finished the rear end (just the rear caliper & line), longer bottom shock link, the top shock mount is done in the same way as in that pic with two bent tubes 3mm thick, the rear end is all working as it should, the problem with doing the top shock mount was that the airbox and oil tank knowlonger fit.
BUT a little chop and plastic welding and I have them in, Im not sure if anyone has done this mod and managed to fit the original airbox or oil tank back in but I have, a quick look and it looks original, Steve how did you get round the oil tank?
With the air filter most just use k&n style etc but I have read alot on setup issues doing this and standard airbox is the best setup if possible, im my case it should not be possible but ive made it work.
I now have some 954 Fireblade calipers, having my tophats made this week, have a little issue with the line stops on the calipers but I will deal with this when I got my tophats.
Top headlight & clock mount will be started soon when I can got the bike down to the workshop, this hopefully will be similar to Steve's design.
ONE BIG ISSUE:
Exhausts, I dont want to build GP exhausts, I cannot start on them untill I get my rearsets as these will determain how and where the baffle will finnish etc, I want my exhausts eather side, not sure if its possible as knowone has done this before but I maybe the first, going to try and follow the jolly moto dimentions but may have to deviate slightly to the tz dimetions, not 100% yet.
Gee thats alot of writing, sorry to bore you all.
I have almost finished the rear end (just the rear caliper & line), longer bottom shock link, the top shock mount is done in the same way as in that pic with two bent tubes 3mm thick, the rear end is all working as it should, the problem with doing the top shock mount was that the airbox and oil tank knowlonger fit.
BUT a little chop and plastic welding and I have them in, Im not sure if anyone has done this mod and managed to fit the original airbox or oil tank back in but I have, a quick look and it looks original, Steve how did you get round the oil tank?
With the air filter most just use k&n style etc but I have read alot on setup issues doing this and standard airbox is the best setup if possible, im my case it should not be possible but ive made it work.
I now have some 954 Fireblade calipers, having my tophats made this week, have a little issue with the line stops on the calipers but I will deal with this when I got my tophats.
Top headlight & clock mount will be started soon when I can got the bike down to the workshop, this hopefully will be similar to Steve's design.
ONE BIG ISSUE:
Exhausts, I dont want to build GP exhausts, I cannot start on them untill I get my rearsets as these will determain how and where the baffle will finnish etc, I want my exhausts eather side, not sure if its possible as knowone has done this before but I maybe the first, going to try and follow the jolly moto dimentions but may have to deviate slightly to the tz dimetions, not 100% yet.
Gee thats alot of writing, sorry to bore you all.
Not much of an update but finaly got all the cones tacked together to check fit, just need each cone seam welded together.
This is my rough set and will be having a new set made when I get these finalised so I can have the cones press braked for better accuracy, they will then fit together alot better which will then make welding them much neater.
As you can see alot of my stuff is in storage in my brothers garage and am realy strugling to get things done or even find anything, but its not far off all mocked up.
This is my rough set and will be having a new set made when I get these finalised so I can have the cones press braked for better accuracy, they will then fit together alot better which will then make welding them much neater.
As you can see alot of my stuff is in storage in my brothers garage and am realy strugling to get things done or even find anything, but its not far off all mocked up.
Been playing a little more.
Had a problem with the chain going tight, thought it was the off set sprocket I made having a little throw in it, got a Talon offset sprocket and still the same problem, chacked the rear sprocket & chain and the sprocket does not run true in the chain. Off came the VFR NC30 sprocket, got my original RD rear sprocket, dill out all the holes to 10mm and on the rear 12mm to cover the counter sink slightly. Sprocket on, all lined up and running true.
So much so I rode it up the path and done a little burn out :)
Alot of the parts are loosly fitted and cable ties holding the clocks and headlight up, nothing tightend up, lots of little things left, need to get some Argon so I can finish it all of with welding etc.
Just a few rough pics for anyone interested.
Talon Sprocket
Chain all in line.
Roughly what she will look like.
Rear end.
From the front.
Suecide shifter ( Ala Mole Grips ) ;) You will all copy the mod, lol.
See how my GP pipes are different to others, tucked right in the bike, also the Rear sets will cover them, well hidern.
Indecators I will be using, Retro standard looking BUT different.
Also a BIG thanks to Slinger/Glyn. Top bloke, got my barrels welded up and bored out, top fella, knows his stuff, anyone wanting one off parts/tuning/pipes/etc talk to Glyn on the UK RD forum.
Anyone interested in my pipe dimentions here we go:
Diameters downpipe - stinger
38 - 55 mm Header
55 - 91 mm
91- 105 mm
105 - 105 mm Belly
105 - 23 mm Reflection/Baffle
23 mm stinger
Lenths dwonpipe - stinger
310 mm down pipe
190 mm
55 mm
95 mm Belly
240 mm Reflection/Baffle
Had a problem with the chain going tight, thought it was the off set sprocket I made having a little throw in it, got a Talon offset sprocket and still the same problem, chacked the rear sprocket & chain and the sprocket does not run true in the chain. Off came the VFR NC30 sprocket, got my original RD rear sprocket, dill out all the holes to 10mm and on the rear 12mm to cover the counter sink slightly. Sprocket on, all lined up and running true.
So much so I rode it up the path and done a little burn out :)
Alot of the parts are loosly fitted and cable ties holding the clocks and headlight up, nothing tightend up, lots of little things left, need to get some Argon so I can finish it all of with welding etc.
Just a few rough pics for anyone interested.
Talon Sprocket
Chain all in line.
Roughly what she will look like.
Rear end.
From the front.
Suecide shifter ( Ala Mole Grips ) ;) You will all copy the mod, lol.
See how my GP pipes are different to others, tucked right in the bike, also the Rear sets will cover them, well hidern.
Indecators I will be using, Retro standard looking BUT different.
Also a BIG thanks to Slinger/Glyn. Top bloke, got my barrels welded up and bored out, top fella, knows his stuff, anyone wanting one off parts/tuning/pipes/etc talk to Glyn on the UK RD forum.
Anyone interested in my pipe dimentions here we go:
Diameters downpipe - stinger
38 - 55 mm Header
55 - 91 mm
91- 105 mm
105 - 105 mm Belly
105 - 23 mm Reflection/Baffle
23 mm stinger
Lenths dwonpipe - stinger
310 mm down pipe
190 mm
55 mm
95 mm Belly
240 mm Reflection/Baffle
Looking realy rough at the moment, lack of money has put this way behind on time, freaking recesion.
Anyway almost compleate, you should get the idea.
Ops I couldent resist.
I took the RD out for a quick spin, raining and not finnished, Private Roads only.
The motor pulled smoth through the RPM from mid to topend, no suddern band like a crosser just progresive but nothing right down the bottom, felt nippy but not that quick BUT im used to thrashing Gixers & Busas
As I thought the front forks have a twist in them, going straight the bars are slightly to the right and it dont turn to the right as much as the left (if that made any sence.
I never done the top shock bolt up tight so there was play there.
Front Master Cylinder as expected is rubbish.
Backwards gears Shocked Not easy to use, god knows how racers use them, need to fabricate new link.
Back tyre square, front tyre oval. New tyres needed obviously.
BUT the big thing is that it all felt square, rear end never felt like it pulled eather way.
Would get it all done sone but lack of cash and also 3rd gear pair shape in my GIXER.
Anyway almost compleate, you should get the idea.
Ops I couldent resist.
I took the RD out for a quick spin, raining and not finnished, Private Roads only.
The motor pulled smoth through the RPM from mid to topend, no suddern band like a crosser just progresive but nothing right down the bottom, felt nippy but not that quick BUT im used to thrashing Gixers & Busas
As I thought the front forks have a twist in them, going straight the bars are slightly to the right and it dont turn to the right as much as the left (if that made any sence.
I never done the top shock bolt up tight so there was play there.
Front Master Cylinder as expected is rubbish.
Backwards gears Shocked Not easy to use, god knows how racers use them, need to fabricate new link.
Back tyre square, front tyre oval. New tyres needed obviously.
BUT the big thing is that it all felt square, rear end never felt like it pulled eather way.
Would get it all done sone but lack of cash and also 3rd gear pair shape in my GIXER.
-
John Huijben
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:24 pm
I know it all looks rough but its all there and all working, finaly got the front end sorted out as it was 100% bent yokes. Pain in the wotsit machining all new spacers and getting everything to fit.
Ive taken it for a spin, few niggles, front end needs droping down about 20mm, need to redo loads on there like shortern the break pipes, need a speedo cable.
The motor is sound, the pipes are not designed for this engine so no bottom end at all, it pulls ok top end but need to get my tuned moter finished.
So couple of odd jobs Mot & Tax and she will be ridern.
Ive taken it for a spin, few niggles, front end needs droping down about 20mm, need to redo loads on there like shortern the break pipes, need a speedo cable.
The motor is sound, the pipes are not designed for this engine so no bottom end at all, it pulls ok top end but need to get my tuned moter finished.
So couple of odd jobs Mot & Tax and she will be ridern.
rd Stars , Real good work you put on this bike.
Result is real good.
Keep us posted.
I'm considering to go same way as you did as your front looks.
Headlight round stock with stock RD 500 clocks fitted on RGV yoke.
If you dont mind I'd like to see a closer pic how you fitted panel on your top yoke.
My concern is that I don't want my light to show more inside and the clocks more outwards if you can understand what I mean.
On your bike you pulled it off quite ok but if you look at it for some time & closer you will see that your headlight should be a little more forward or your panel more in.
Thanks anyway
Petros
Result is real good.
Keep us posted.
I'm considering to go same way as you did as your front looks.
Headlight round stock with stock RD 500 clocks fitted on RGV yoke.
If you dont mind I'd like to see a closer pic how you fitted panel on your top yoke.
My concern is that I don't want my light to show more inside and the clocks more outwards if you can understand what I mean.
On your bike you pulled it off quite ok but if you look at it for some time & closer you will see that your headlight should be a little more forward or your panel more in.
Thanks anyway
Petros
Your right about the clocks to far forward, they will come bace an inch or two, just been trying to get it running to make sure it all works. Yeh wanted to keep it looking just like an RD350 BUT with the modern bits attached.
Its realy rough at the moment so no close up pics, lol, nah will do soon just need to sort a few things first.
BUT the clock mount is basic, there are two holes under the yokes that are threaded, flat plate mounted to them and bent some solid round bar with two threaded ends for the clocks.
The whole bike will be run for a short while so I can redo and fabricate all the bits, then it will be a full strip down and rebuild.
BUT one thing I can say, it is 100% square and straight.
Its realy rough at the moment so no close up pics, lol, nah will do soon just need to sort a few things first.
BUT the clock mount is basic, there are two holes under the yokes that are threaded, flat plate mounted to them and bent some solid round bar with two threaded ends for the clocks.
The whole bike will be run for a short while so I can redo and fabricate all the bits, then it will be a full strip down and rebuild.
BUT one thing I can say, it is 100% square and straight.