rdstars hybrid
Moderator: rztom
rdstars hybrid
Well thought I would post a couple of pics. I know it seams hardly anything has been done but its just waiting for parts etc.
Well hear is the plan. RD350 ypvs f2.
NC30 rear end (need NK Racing to mod it to fit), rear wheel undecided (nc30 or VFR 750 17 x 5")
Front end ZXR250 yokes, ZXR400 H usd forks, KR1s front wheel. Brakes RSV Mille Brembo master cylinder, CBR/VTR/GSXR calipers.
Paint will be all black with the original red & white decals and compleatly standard looking. Defo white wheels
Not sure about the frame, may re-powder coat it Black as I carnt see it working in Red ( Opinions Please )
I should have the bike all mocked up in about 6 weeks, I am going to run the bike for a month to see that it is all holding together.
After the test runs I will pull it compleatly apart and all the powder coating, chrome & paint will be done.
May at that stage get a new wiring loom as its been bodged ( Are these readly avalible, How much do they cost? )
Top end will be pulled off, head & porting mods, check to see the condition of the bigends, if ok I will leave the bottom end but still open the bottom of the crank case ports.
Also will be looking for some 32mm carbs. Want to build my own pipes but may just mod the microns as I dont like the sweep of them or the cans.
The ZXR250 yokes are a little more narrow than the 400's, this will go better with the narrow RD frame and 3" KR1s wheel. Also all I needed to do to fit them is cut the back of an old bearing off and there was my 3mm 25mm bore spacer, set of top bearings only for top and bottom of the yokes 25mm bore and it bolted straight in. Nice and easy. Need to get the ZXR400 axle shorted 8-10mm, turned down to 17mm o/d & re-threaded and the wheel will bolt on with speedo drive. Original clocks for me. :)
Thats all the boring bits, now for a few pics.
Well hear is the plan. RD350 ypvs f2.
NC30 rear end (need NK Racing to mod it to fit), rear wheel undecided (nc30 or VFR 750 17 x 5")
Front end ZXR250 yokes, ZXR400 H usd forks, KR1s front wheel. Brakes RSV Mille Brembo master cylinder, CBR/VTR/GSXR calipers.
Paint will be all black with the original red & white decals and compleatly standard looking. Defo white wheels
Not sure about the frame, may re-powder coat it Black as I carnt see it working in Red ( Opinions Please )
I should have the bike all mocked up in about 6 weeks, I am going to run the bike for a month to see that it is all holding together.
After the test runs I will pull it compleatly apart and all the powder coating, chrome & paint will be done.
May at that stage get a new wiring loom as its been bodged ( Are these readly avalible, How much do they cost? )
Top end will be pulled off, head & porting mods, check to see the condition of the bigends, if ok I will leave the bottom end but still open the bottom of the crank case ports.
Also will be looking for some 32mm carbs. Want to build my own pipes but may just mod the microns as I dont like the sweep of them or the cans.
The ZXR250 yokes are a little more narrow than the 400's, this will go better with the narrow RD frame and 3" KR1s wheel. Also all I needed to do to fit them is cut the back of an old bearing off and there was my 3mm 25mm bore spacer, set of top bearings only for top and bottom of the yokes 25mm bore and it bolted straight in. Nice and easy. Need to get the ZXR400 axle shorted 8-10mm, turned down to 17mm o/d & re-threaded and the wheel will bolt on with speedo drive. Original clocks for me. :)
Thats all the boring bits, now for a few pics.
Yeh im in the UK.
Spent all day going through the wiring loom, its been bodged badly. There are no connectors to link the clocks light etc to the loom, all cables have been crimped. Also the clocks dont light up, the oil and nutral light dont work, think im missin a few cables. May just replace the loom.
Notched out the top yoke so the ignition switch fits but the two fitting holes are out of place by about 5mm. May see if I can drill out the holes a few mill.
Need to make a couple of spacers to fit the headlight.
Its getting there.
Spent all day going through the wiring loom, its been bodged badly. There are no connectors to link the clocks light etc to the loom, all cables have been crimped. Also the clocks dont light up, the oil and nutral light dont work, think im missin a few cables. May just replace the loom.
Notched out the top yoke so the ignition switch fits but the two fitting holes are out of place by about 5mm. May see if I can drill out the holes a few mill.
Need to make a couple of spacers to fit the headlight.
Its getting there.
For sure!
can you use the original ig switch from the upper triple tree?
I think that your wire harness must be different than the fixed headlight model, I mean that should has thicker wires because you turn them every time.
can you use the original ig switch from the upper triple tree?
I think that your wire harness must be different than the fixed headlight model, I mean that should has thicker wires because you turn them every time.
"...It's just like traveling on a plane, but, without that horrible meal... and with the window opened..."
(RD350 87')
The main problem is that its a f2 model bodged to look like a n2. I may fix the loom, did spend time on it today and it made me want to rip it out, there is nothing wrong with a bodge, but there is something wrong with a bodge when a nupty does it.
I may leave it for now, just get the bike on the road for a month and when rebuilt then spend out for another loom
Wish I had another loom to copy and follow.
Need to make a spacer for the headlight brackets, the rubbers had to come out and when closed on the USD forks there is a few mm gap between and dont close fully.
My other issue is if it is ok to have metal to metal ( clamp to forks ) and if it will move or damage the forks.
I may leave it for now, just get the bike on the road for a month and when rebuilt then spend out for another loom
Wish I had another loom to copy and follow.
Need to make a spacer for the headlight brackets, the rubbers had to come out and when closed on the USD forks there is a few mm gap between and dont close fully.
My other issue is if it is ok to have metal to metal ( clamp to forks ) and if it will move or damage the forks.
Just an update.
I was concidering getting the swingarm machined to fit the frame. I was told that 5mm is taken of one side only and it runs only on one bearing one side as one is taken out.
I did not like this idea as it will put the rear end off center by 5mm, I know 5mm is nothing but concidering its mine I want the swingarm bang on center.
What I did was cut down the original spiggots in the frame down and re welded the spiggot to make sure its solid in the frame, also checked that the spindle would fit back in and it was all inline.
Had someone machine me some spacers & tube to fit the swingarm but also fit the original RD spindle, they also carry the bearings both sides, my measurements were out by 2mm each side so I had to use two extra spacers. Its a real nice tight fit which is needed as the bearings on the right side of the swingarm need slight preasure both sides and it moves up and down smoth with no play even with out being tightend up.
Just a few pics of the arm in.
My lil helper.
The chain is 5mm out of line but thats easy sorted, just need another sprocket and machine the old one down and attach the two.
Got a problem with the shock/arm link & dog bone, on the nc30 it is offset and also dont fit the RD frame.
Not sure what to do about this, ANY IDEAS PLEASE. :)
I was concidering getting the swingarm machined to fit the frame. I was told that 5mm is taken of one side only and it runs only on one bearing one side as one is taken out.
I did not like this idea as it will put the rear end off center by 5mm, I know 5mm is nothing but concidering its mine I want the swingarm bang on center.
What I did was cut down the original spiggots in the frame down and re welded the spiggot to make sure its solid in the frame, also checked that the spindle would fit back in and it was all inline.
Had someone machine me some spacers & tube to fit the swingarm but also fit the original RD spindle, they also carry the bearings both sides, my measurements were out by 2mm each side so I had to use two extra spacers. Its a real nice tight fit which is needed as the bearings on the right side of the swingarm need slight preasure both sides and it moves up and down smoth with no play even with out being tightend up.
Just a few pics of the arm in.
My lil helper.
The chain is 5mm out of line but thats easy sorted, just need another sprocket and machine the old one down and attach the two.
Got a problem with the shock/arm link & dog bone, on the nc30 it is offset and also dont fit the RD frame.
Not sure what to do about this, ANY IDEAS PLEASE. :)
rdstars,
Using the MC28 would have made your conversion a bit easier. The
stock shock and relay arm bolt up just like stock the only thing you
wind up making is a new pivot link that bolts in place on the bottom
of the swingarm ( this replaces the Honda part ) and bolts to the relay
arm where the shock and relay are held by the sleeve that pins the
shock to the link. I'd say look at Nick Gargano's RZR in the Out Front
section but don't think it shows much, no matter I have pictures of how
I did it.
With the NC30 it appears eveything is shifted to the left side of the frame
I'd say cut the lower relay brackets off ( neatly ) do the same with the upper shock mount, shift left til you get everything lined up and the shock
is centered though the hole in the swingarm, weld away.
You could build brackets that bolt to the stock mount points and shift
everything to the left but thats a bit messy.
Just a thought.
Using the MC28 would have made your conversion a bit easier. The
stock shock and relay arm bolt up just like stock the only thing you
wind up making is a new pivot link that bolts in place on the bottom
of the swingarm ( this replaces the Honda part ) and bolts to the relay
arm where the shock and relay are held by the sleeve that pins the
shock to the link. I'd say look at Nick Gargano's RZR in the Out Front
section but don't think it shows much, no matter I have pictures of how
I did it.
With the NC30 it appears eveything is shifted to the left side of the frame
I'd say cut the lower relay brackets off ( neatly ) do the same with the upper shock mount, shift left til you get everything lined up and the shock
is centered though the hole in the swingarm, weld away.
You could build brackets that bolt to the stock mount points and shift
everything to the left but thats a bit messy.
Just a thought.
it's 5mm more :) ; just get spot on , have a try first before modding anythingrdstars wrote:I will have a look at that one, got an LC sat hear rusting away I can measure from. I may fabricate a new one though, not sure.SEB4LO wrote:use an LC spacer behind the spocket instead of the YPVS one, you should be close
Thanks Seb, Hope to be picking your brain soon, ;)
BIG BORE / STROKED MANIAC :D
Thanks Seb, I do have that lc rusting away, I know its not mine but tuff.
RGVSteve, I can only imagen how rare the MC28 arm would be and the cost if I ever found one.
I got someone comming out to me on Sunday who is local to do a few spacers and spindle for my front wheel so I can get another opinion on a way around this hopefully, dont want to cut the bottom mountain if I can help it, more ideas though are greatfull.
Im sure I will get around it, I got told the swingarm had to be modded to go in the frame and it would sit off center, well mine is in and is center, just puts the sprocket off center and thats easy enough.
Thanks all, keep the comments comming.
RGVSteve, I can only imagen how rare the MC28 arm would be and the cost if I ever found one.
I got someone comming out to me on Sunday who is local to do a few spacers and spindle for my front wheel so I can get another opinion on a way around this hopefully, dont want to cut the bottom mountain if I can help it, more ideas though are greatfull.
Im sure I will get around it, I got told the swingarm had to be modded to go in the frame and it would sit off center, well mine is in and is center, just puts the sprocket off center and thats easy enough.
Thanks all, keep the comments comming.
rdstars,
Steve beat me to my next question. I assume when you say the swingarm
is centered in the frame you mean with the rear wheel installed on the
swingarm that the center of the rear wheel is centered in the frame.
I use the steering stem as a center reference, the RZ frame leaves
allot to be desired as fas as being square or true.
I would think being in the UK the MC28 arm would have been easier
to get, the ones I've done the owners sourced them from Japan.
Steve beat me to my next question. I assume when you say the swingarm
is centered in the frame you mean with the rear wheel installed on the
swingarm that the center of the rear wheel is centered in the frame.
I use the steering stem as a center reference, the RZ frame leaves
allot to be desired as fas as being square or true.
I would think being in the UK the MC28 arm would have been easier
to get, the ones I've done the owners sourced them from Japan.
I managed to find out off another forum that the front of the swingarm left to right is square and sits center in the nc30 frame between mountain points, that is how I have mounted the arm if that makes any sence. If need be I am able to get a few more spacers and have this adjusted eather left or right, would be a doddle to do.
I got told by someone who mods the arm that they dont touch the frame but they machine 5mm from the right hand side removing the one bearing and this means that the sprockets line up, but that puts the swingarm off center 5mm, dont make sence to me, I doubt anyone will feel the difference in 5mm but I dident want it done that way and also wanted to do it myself.
I would gess alot of RD's are a little out here and there as they are not the most ridged of frames and back in the day mass manifactured etc.
The only thing I think I may need to do is brace the frame in a few places, I will see how the test ride goes when it is all mocked up.
Carnt wait to strip it for the second time, tuning time :)
I got told by someone who mods the arm that they dont touch the frame but they machine 5mm from the right hand side removing the one bearing and this means that the sprockets line up, but that puts the swingarm off center 5mm, dont make sence to me, I doubt anyone will feel the difference in 5mm but I dident want it done that way and also wanted to do it myself.
I would gess alot of RD's are a little out here and there as they are not the most ridged of frames and back in the day mass manifactured etc.
The only thing I think I may need to do is brace the frame in a few places, I will see how the test ride goes when it is all mocked up.
Carnt wait to strip it for the second time, tuning time :)
rdstars,
Is the wheel centered when its installed on the swingarm? Fitting a
single sided swingarm is not the same as a regular swingarm, I've
done a few just trying to save you some headaches. Humor me, fit
the wheel, mark the center, run a line from the steering head to the
wheel center stand back and eye ball it, if all is well, great, if not
better to find out now.
Is the wheel centered when its installed on the swingarm? Fitting a
single sided swingarm is not the same as a regular swingarm, I've
done a few just trying to save you some headaches. Humor me, fit
the wheel, mark the center, run a line from the steering head to the
wheel center stand back and eye ball it, if all is well, great, if not
better to find out now.