RZ/RD 350 & Misc. 2-Stroke Tech BBS

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 Post subject: RZ 350 Hooligan Build
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 2:03 am 
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Location: Little Rock, Arkansas USA
Hellow everyone, 


Picked up a 1984 KR RZ 350 off dallas craigslist couple of days ago for a $1000 with 6k miles, one owner bike. He fliped it in 87', been in storage sence.  Has DG chambers, carbon reeds and came with lots on nib parts. Got it home and cleaned carbs, new oil lines, new battery, rebuilt tank valve, fresh fuel, started on 3ed kick. Did a few short test runs with plug checks and flote valve adjustments.  Very close but not perfect, thinking its not jetted for the chambers or crank seals. Pulls hardered at 3/4 throttle than wot. I went ahead and gave it a good cleaning than a 75 mile ride today. What a freaking riot to ride. This thing is a true riders bike, Im in love. First 2 stroke bike to own, came off a gsxr k to the rz. 

Im hoping some of you guys can help me with this build. Im very crafty. Have a small mill and lathe. Can make carbon or galss body parts pretty good. I have 2 pix of what Im shooting for looks wise. I dont have to have the best handling as I try not to push my limits on the street. I would rathe save weight but the newer style front end and swing arm looks very sweet imo. Plus 17" wheels and tires look much better as well. Im really digging the 6 spoke 
and hight exist exhaust on each side. The r1 gauge is a must have as well.

Not sure on what to do with the engine. Im thinking I would like to have 75 to 80 hp,  unless I can have more and still be thrashable on the street. Remember I want a Hooligan bike with low gearing and good lines and looks. Its for sure going to be black and yellow. Who makes the high exit and one on each side pipes? What fork and swing arm is the easiest?  Should I go am cylinders are stay with stock power valve cylinder? what  should my jetting be with the dg chambers? If you see something on ebay that I need on this build please link it.


Other than a few days of reading I know nothing about the RZ's. I do know yamaha twin 2 strokes tuning from 30 years of freestyle jet skis. the first pic is the rz I just picked up. The other 2 are what Im kinda shooting for on looks. The cut r1 bikini firing looks nice and easy to make on the more modern looking RZ. I think that coupled with the old school look might work. Thinking Ill start looking for r1 parts.

Thanks for any input.
Shawn

Posted earlier in the wrong section so reposting here, sorry.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 2:06 am 
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This forum doesn't work like others I visit. Why can't I load a pic that I took myself?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 6:40 pm 
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[quote="driftmaster"]advice taken, thanks guys!

5k is what I have planed on spending. I guess I will focused on looks and suspension for now and crank seals. I do my
Own porting on the yamaha skis I ride and build. It's prety much a simple clean up to get ports pointed in the right direction along with widening the ex ports to 65% of boar. We look for bottom end on freestyle skis. Im guessing I would want to may rise the ex a bit on the rz rather then widening so much?. Are their any how to porting threads here? I feel its something I can do myself when the engine gets seals. Do you guy finger port the cases? How much do you guys shave
the head? What about the proper squish band?
Here are two contact links also with good reads from two of the best in the buisness each does great work and can answer all your questions, DO NOT go too aggressive without alot of research and advice from Ed or Scott or equivilant

http://home.earthlink.net/~scloughn/

http://erlenbachracing.co/

There are also, clean up & port templates out there for sale for Banshees and likley RZs pay attention to any YPVS [color=#BF0000]interferance & make sure the YPVS is operating perfectly, A good servicing tuneup on all systems is all you need, no need for a programable ignition & other fancy stuff yet...lol, do that stuff way down the road

Can I exstend the Stinger tube to make high exit exhaust on my DG Chambers? Then just add carbon stingers?
I like the high exit look.
While not the best solution, the short answer is YES, viewed it many times, most have said their happy w performance neither noticably better nor worse. Who sells decent rear sets? Who is the go to guy
There are not many out there outside of custom, These you can always get parts for Tarozzi

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/rearsets

for head milling and redoming if I choose to send it out? Scott Clough, again hes "the man" What gasket kit and where should I get it?
Try to purchase OEM in new condition Do you guys run the
stock fuel selector are one that has a off?
Stock works just fine w a rebuild kit & you can also do preventative modifications to it if desired

The guy was tring to put the bike back together before he sold it to me. Its when he put the reed in. Also it has a 2 into 1
kn filter. So thats pipes, reeds and kn filter, rest 100% stock.

Thank you guys again. I feel Im headed in the right direction now, thanks for saving me time money and headaches. I ordered r1 gauge stuff, 16 tooth,185 to 200 jets and few other things. Check out the Dynojet kit from Economy Cycle or Toomey Racing and cross referance the jet sizes w what you bought to match you (really need the kit w needles ) to do it properly, read the Toomey article and tech tips. Float condition & heights are critical

Yes, I have been trying to upload pix from hard drive. Can I not do it that way? Do I need to up load somewhere else and link here?
Pics are a hassle here, save that for another post...lol. but your bike looks sweet, cant go wrong w the R/W/B Kenny Roberts replica. Here are some more links for you as well, By reading their websites and thier services or recomendations you guaranteed too be in good hands w solid advice, Yes there are others but that list is endless, however ...theres also a guy (in Texas) whom can help you with mechanicals RDs Only, but I dont know too much about them.

Bodywork for that tailsection a stock solo seat replica also looks awesome. http://www.airtech-streamlining.com

Texas mechanic. http://www.rdsonly.com/

Parts supplier http://hvccycle.net/

Toomey website download PDF in tech tips for RZ350. http://www.toomey.com/

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Banshee (Baja) race bike, Lonestar A-Arms, dual 9" L.E.Ds, FMF, Toomey,19cc domes, IMS tank, run flats.
96 GSXR SRAD, Future Yoshimura Lucky Strike rep.
85 custom Tri-Z
RZ/YZR track bike(project)
86 VFR750 RC24 Merkel replica (project)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 10:29 pm 
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Read this for image posting:
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14360

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Banshee (Baja) race bike, Lonestar A-Arms, dual 9" L.E.Ds, FMF, Toomey,19cc domes, IMS tank, run flats.
96 GSXR SRAD, Future Yoshimura Lucky Strike rep.
85 custom Tri-Z
RZ/YZR track bike(project)
86 VFR750 RC24 Merkel replica (project)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:01 pm 
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Location: Little Rock, Arkansas USA
Questo, thanks for all the very helpful info, btw Im from Little Rock. Made a 10 hour round trip to
pick up the bike. Got more stuff coming, 15 tooth, for giggles, stage 3 jet kit, one pice tail kit and graphics,
Tarozzi sets, oem 1/4 fairing, wind screen red. Your ideals are sticking in my head, staying red now :).

One thing I would like to get out of the way is the front end swapl, stock just dont cut it. What the easiest 41mm
swap? I really like the 6 spoke but will be happy with a easy swap and take what I get. Would like matching rims.
Tried to call JMC today, lookks like their out of business.? Im ready t o order a swingarm, where do I get one? Really
like the look of the JMC. Going to call Metachex in the moring.

What set of the Jim Lomas pipes do I need?

Thanks again for all the help Questo!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:10 pm 
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Just want to get this info in the same thread for reference.


Questo vecchio rz wrote:
Some advice: I'd rather see you smiling & riding than spending $ and not enjoying it, then selling it off unfinished.
Accept the RZ for what it is, a small but extreamly fun bike.

Get a factory service manual.

Jetting, I wont suggest anything outside of general proven RZ known setups. Too many variables. If your motor and carbs are original and stock airbox is in place, you should not have to rejet it should run good & safe.

If your carbs are stock 26mm w a 2-1 filter or indavidual filters then either a Dynojet kit (economy cycle) or Toomey jet kit (Toomey racing) is all you need.

Do yourself a favor, At this point in time. Dont start changing carbs in search of gains you probably wont find, keep the stock carbs they deliver unrivaled reliable street performance even on a hotrodded motor.

Even though its a friggin major job, the crankseals are a good maintenace idea. As you have seen its still runs after all these years, and many do for ages. No one can say if they will last, could be 300 miles could be 6000. Better safe than sorry. Majority of leaks occur@ the carbs & reed area always see thats all in order. You said carbon reeds? on bike thats been sitting so many years did you add them?

Again...remember 1st of all this is a small motorcycle dont expect miracles in performance vs most machines out there, taken for what it is @ 347cc its a great little bike. If you want a great fun street bike on a budget the following are good proven recomendations:

Swap to a 16 tooth counter sprocket (its mandatory)..lol
Stock 26mm carbs w either above mentioned jet kits.(see if your carbs are orig 26mm or aftermarket).
Simple performance reeds, TDR etc..
Aftermarket pipes (any), yes even your DGs. Some pipes are better than others, but for a all around fast street bike, Toomeys are the pipe to beat. There
are better looking far more expensive options for spec builds as well, but for a basic performance build theres no better bang for the buck than a used set of Toomeys.(been there done that.)
Standard head milling/shaving (make sure it has not already been done)!
Mild porting nothing too extreame Stage 1 or 2.
Good front fork revalve kit. (Race Tech gold valve emulators) etc...
Any bargain rear shock (Hagon) is the cheapest stock replacement at around $350.00, but still a good baduc shock.
Simple EBC brake pads or inexpensive adapter plates with R-1 calipers.

If you want more ultimate performance, its absolutley unlimited with this engine, For the price NO mass produced 2 stoke motor offers more performance potential...none. You have many options such as, more aggressive port work, billet or modified O ringed heads, aftermarket bigbore cylinders, stroker cranks, larger carbs to suit displacement, programmable ignitions, spec exhuasts for increased bore etc. All this comes at a much increased cost of money, reliability and a much narrowed less smooth powerband..but in some cases exceeding triple the H.P. of a stock machine.

Same goes for suspension skys the limit I'd recommend a JMC or Metachex swingarm built w your wheel choice over other conversions. Penske or Nitron or eqiv rear shock, proffessionally revalved front end conversions w proper rake & trail tripple clamps, steering dampner.

My advice, keep it as realistic as you can afford even on a budget one would be looking realistically at probably 5 grand, doing all the above w accociated work your absolutley looking well over 10 thousand $. But on a budget or unlimited checkbook its a riot of a bike either way.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:26 pm 
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Her a few more set ups I like. Ur right red dont look bad.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 1:13 am 
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driftmaster wrote:
Questo, thanks for all the very helpful info, btw Im from Little Rock. Made a 10 hour round trip to
pick up the bike. Got more stuff coming, 15 too for giggles, A 15 tooth is a riot for stoplight street blasts, it greatly enhanced acceleration, but watch the front end lofting..lol stage 3 jet kit, one pice tail kit and graphics,
Tarozzi sets, oem 1/4 fairing, wind screen red. Your ideals are sticking in my head, staying red now :). I wanted a yellow & bkack one...until they rolled a Red White & Blue on to the showroom floor & we all know red bikes are just faster :smt003

One thing I would like to get out of the way is the front end swapl, stock just dont cut it. What the easiest 41mm
swap? I really like the 6 spoke but will be happy with a easy swap and take what I get. Would like matching rims.
Im with you I've bought the same. Not sure whats the easiest, theres many options out there, but the 6 spoke Hondas you can get complete frontends from Honda CBR 600s and the rear can be the same, or source a complete NSR250 frontend & rear wheel looks the same but is said to fit better without machining. A NSR250 rear wheel & brake assembly can be sourced from England where Metachex is located as well and they will build it for you as a package. Talk to Nigel @ NKRacing he can also do any of this for you and offer help & also has his own RZs heres his site:

http://www.nkracing.co.uk/

Tried to call JMC today, looks like their out of business.? Im ready to order a swingarm, where do I get one? Really
like the look of the JMC. Going to call Metachex in the moring. Metachex is the better choice there huge RD/RZ fans too! In addition becuase of the British economy...prices are likley better!

What set of the Jim Lomas pipes do I need?
Youd probably like the side by sides, Jim builds great pipes, that will perform great on your build and few in the industry build a more beautiful exhuast their welding is on par with Akrapovic and Yoshimuras Japan hand built pipes. Contact Lomas directly and show him a photo of that bike and instruct them to build that, (be warned) stainless pipes are about a $1000 bucks, you can contact Jim Hinshaw @ "Fast From The Past" hes a U.S. distributor. I bought a set of stainless GPs from Dingda Racing in Canada for $250 cheaper than anyone in the states! But that was a decade ago when their dollar was worth more, Im not sure if there still in buisness? But he was very proffessional.
heres the links:


http://www.jl-exhausts.com/

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/

http://members.shaw.ca/drt38/

Thanks again for all the help Questo!


Your welcome, As my projects are slow, this brings me some form if happiness. " If I could sell restored/rebuilt custom RZs or restomod projects for 20k I could do this for a living all day long...lol." But in reality..lol

_________________
Banshee (Baja) race bike, Lonestar A-Arms, dual 9" L.E.Ds, FMF, Toomey,19cc domes, IMS tank, run flats.
96 GSXR SRAD, Future Yoshimura Lucky Strike rep.
85 custom Tri-Z
RZ/YZR track bike(project)
86 VFR750 RC24 Merkel replica (project)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 11:22 am 
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Ok, luckily I have a few good mates in GB. So let me get it straight, RGV and NSR front end will bolt and
they are 41mm? Should I get calipers and the rotors with the front wheels? Swingarm wont work fromrgv or nsr?
just rear wheel?

If my mates can get the parts what all do I need to a T? Would like to just make 1 shipment.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 3:50 pm 
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RGV VJ22 (and maybe VJ23) swingarm is practically a bolt on to the RZ frame. A couple of adapter plates and new dogbones and the whole thing bolts on with RGV linkage and shock, closely preserving the Suzuki geometry. There are drawings around for the parts if you go this route.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:10 pm 
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shipping a rear end and forks and wheels from the UK to the US would be ungodly expensive.
i would try and find the parts closer to home . Canada is a gold mine of parts and relatively close.
Just my .02 cents.
the only thing in your favor in respect to UK parts is the pound is in the toilet so your $$$ go further. :smt023
mark

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350LC,Athena 392 big bore,stock porting,swiss cheese air box,stock reeds,spec11 pipes.(now TSA big bore pipes)
She might not be pretty but she will always be a fun ride


1982 YAMA RD350LC
2004 BMW R1150RT
1989 FZR1000
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:33 pm 
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just seen this jmc swinger for sale on the uk site for 600 pounds.
but i think its gone already.
http://rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/3 ... raced-ypvs

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350LC,Athena 392 big bore,stock porting,swiss cheese air box,stock reeds,spec11 pipes.(now TSA big bore pipes)
She might not be pretty but she will always be a fun ride


1982 YAMA RD350LC
2004 BMW R1150RT
1989 FZR1000
1994 FZR1000


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 9:39 pm 
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Waiting to hear back from Nigel for turn key front and rear set up.

Rusty: thanks for the info, you made it more clear for me.

Ill hang tight and see what comes along. Please link again if you guys see a set up for sale.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 10:50 pm 
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I cant really recomend any swap at this point, as there are just too many variables. I've seen at least a dozen diffrent frontend & swingarms modified & fitted. Youll have to do some research regarding triples & offset, rake & trail etc..with whatever forks you choose. I have two diffrent swingarms, a FZ & FZR Deltabox and a custo built front end w Vortex triples (I bought them suppoaedly ready to go, but there some things I dont like and have to sort out. I'm not fitting the (swingarm) until I understand the geometry a little better./ Im trying to get over to L.E. Im also modifying the subframe which opens up a can o worms.
Be warned: You might have a very hard time finding anyone in the U.S. that can do this properly for a reaonable cost. I've had some outragous quotes exceeding $1500.00 just labor..i have all the F-ing parts...lol
Shipping from the U.K. for a complete bolt on, IMO would be worth the cost, especially now. I had a quote from JMC years ago it was not too bad, I cannot see it being prohibitive? But Ive never shipped from the U.K. either.
I found out shipping from Germany or Greece is CHEAP & FAST! I also had my pipes through Dingda shipped directly from the C. Republic is was also dirt cheap.
As far as rims go, Im a stickler for looks and for me I really do not like triple spoke wheels of any kind, there just butt ugly to me. I had to have multi spoke, so the Honda 6 spoke 17" front w NSR250 rear MAGTEKs is what I went with, I had to have them & the price was right.
If you have someone machine spacers/adapters you can almost have any wheel that will fit. The RGV gull arm looks damn good. But theres no way I could have that arm without a set of. custom built GP pipes tucked way'up & tight underneath it, it looks sweeet that way. I saw one in person at Turfreys shop, F-ing nice, almost made me want to sell my FZR arm...lol. In addition, I have never meadured the wheelbade with a RGV, but it sure looks Damn Loooong to me? Cuold just be an illusion. I wouldnt want anything much longer than stock.
Dont forget the Metachex, or. NK w a conversion expensive yes, but pretty trick send them your (complete) wheel & brake assembly & they build it.
I drag my feet & 2nd guess every F-ing thing I do... I'd recommend copying someones proven setup or trust NK etc..To just do it and be done with it.
Sounds like your off to a great start.

_________________
Banshee (Baja) race bike, Lonestar A-Arms, dual 9" L.E.Ds, FMF, Toomey,19cc domes, IMS tank, run flats.
96 GSXR SRAD, Future Yoshimura Lucky Strike rep.
85 custom Tri-Z
RZ/YZR track bike(project)
86 VFR750 RC24 Merkel replica (project)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 9:06 am 
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two-stroke-brit wrote:
Canada is a gold mine of parts and relatively close.
Just my .02 cents.


Stop telling everyone, dammit. :smt002 Only downside is that we didn't get the best of them, RGV250, TZR's 3xv and 3ma and NSR's (only the 400 came here). We did get the 500 RZ and Gamma, but they are pretty expensive now due to cross border shoppers.

I recall NK evaluated the adapter setup for the RGV arm and said it was within a few degrees of preserving the correct geometry. The RGV arm is about 50mm longer than the RZ, but you get about half of that wheelbase back with the reduced offset of newer forks so it's not a big deal in my view. Despite looking beefier most newer components are the same or lighter than what the RZ came with.
FWIW I got my RGV arm with axle, linkage, brake and shock from the UK for under $500 incl. shipping, but that was over a decade ago. Add in wheels and forks and it goes up fast. Make sure you at least get the linkage and axle with a swingarm or you'll spend a bundle chasing hard to find small bits.


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