RZ/RD 350 & Misc. 2-Stroke Tech BBS

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:56 am 
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Oh,ok, I'll check it out, ta.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 4:03 am 
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Engine went in the bike today with the help of LB who did the heavy lifting as I shouldnt be lifting anything until well into 2018, sigh... Anyway, cheers m8!

Had a good look and finally this mark on the casting 'horsey mentions. For those looking its on the vertical plane on the inlet pipe that joins the water pump to the rad, on the OD. Easily dressed up with a dremel/file etc. and is a good tip on LC and RZ units.
As an extra tip: When doing that always check the flow from the pump through the case, on new basnhee castings they often have flashing, not so the old ones it seems. just a hot tip... not useful on an LC so much as no new covers exist.

Anyway, progress has been slow as I've been doing other things, mostly plating and powdercoating bits for other projects, but I have been inching forwards on this one. Eg. I've built a full kickstarter with replated green parts and swapped more bolts and parts out with newly plated or correct coloured parts, like the brake pedal is now a plated item.

I'll come clean... I did cheap out and buy some Yambits inlet rubbers... breaking my own rule about buying anything with both of the words 'yambits' and 'rubber' in the name. I should say that I've bought lots of things from Yambits and most of it has been fine, but these are not. Theyre pretty nasty in the hand, feeling very 'silicony' and when doing the bolts up they gave me a 'Forged in Fire' moment where during the quench you hear that 'ting' that means its developed a crack. Maybe Im a rock ape and did em up too tight, but Im well known as being light touch with parts, so... anyway, both rubbers have 'cracks' that can be seen on the sides, not through but 'under' the rubber/silicone. As these are not through the rubber coating i reckon these units ahve plastic frames, not alloy like the originals or even the Japanese copies. I suspect these are from someone like PGM looking at the units and pics. Ok, they were half the price of Norbos OEMs... A silly mistake on my part, I hadn't checked that until now, at his prices the OEMs are a no brainer.

Today we pressure tested these and they leaked at the joint pipe where its a bit baggy and not tight enough on the LC balancer pipe. I thought they'd leak at the cracks, but the inlets were glued in with 1194 as I didnt trust them so thats holding it. Obviously, these inlets will worry me so they will get swapped out for sure.

Connected up the tie bars when I finally found the last of the correct bolts (and got them the right way round, the clue is in the L and R on the bars, but Id swapped them lol. I mused to myself that all those underside parts are replated and painted, and yet no one will see them unless I wheelie everywhere... hmm... and even then I bet the pipes cover them, ahhh... :smt021 :smt003

Filled the water after connecting the Legend matt silicone hoses with the replated OEM clamps and it it looks fantastic. Pic to follow...

Tomorrow I'll try and sort the wiring runs and have another go at the new rubber for the stator as the plugs have been hard work so far. I'll lap the flywheel as usual, and swear at the nasty woodruff key slot that ripped a chunk out of my finger today, its sharp as a blade. :smt010

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:34 pm 
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Location: Hunter Valley,Australia
Glad to help Jon,this boke will be something special when finished,be a very well restored bike.....oh & thanks again for the chrissy prez 😁


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 8:59 am 
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Thanks mate!

Today was another big day on this bike. New kick start rubber robbed off another kicker (a powdered one) and put on plated unit. The chain is now on and axle tightened. The gears were all checked and all good. The lock tabs folded on sprockets, oil pipes fitted and routed. Engine oil poured in.

I did discover that i had a weep at the water pump, shitty gasket seal i think. I tightened that twice and have now swapped the silly Yam screws for something with a decent head, hopefully it wont leak now, its not OEM but... Anyway, rad cover fitted with correct screws.

Flywheel lapped to crank. tacho cable connected too... Stator plugs removed, new rubber fitted and the stator went in. Next up I sorted the wiring runs to try and get to the rear of the bike, I got there but the aftermarket indicator wires are just a bit too short, damn. I'll extend them.

Turned the key and nothing... eeek. Then remembered this loom has no fuses in its fusebox. Fuses found and added and we have life. I think the tacho bulbs is possibly blown, but otherwise it all works.

I did a bunch of other things today too, but thats all I can put my finger on at the moment, its very close to being a bike now...

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:26 am 
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Well done Jon. Can't wait to see pics.

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Last edited by hondaror on Sun Nov 26, 2017 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 8:55 am 
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Ok, here you go.... Tho... To be honest it doest look great in this pic:

Image

The issue is really that this is some old bodywork I had lying around and you cant see any of the real work in this resto with it fitted, especially from that distance, its more a close up thing for those who 'know' what to look for I guess.

The real bodywork will be painted next year and will be 2 stripe blue, but with the 250 designation to further reenforce that this is 'the Aussie 250 that grew into a 350', the colour scheme being 350 but with the 'correct' engine size for the chassis plate and my special '2's as well. Of course, its a full 350 with correct brakes, rear wheel, engine parts and carbs etc etc.

Anyway, this has now had some finishing done with the clutch adjusted and the timing set and a bunch of other stuff added. In sad to say that the waterpump is still leaking and I dont think I can tighten those bolts anymore without stripping the threads, the gasket is very crushed from what i can tell so its now time to drop the water and redo that seal. damn. But if bikes like this were easy we'd all do em... oh hold on, here we all do... LOL! :smt003

I still need inlet rubbers and the carbs need their balls doing, otherwise this would be a runner.

Had a bit of fun n games with the stator I bought from a forumer out of Canada, seems these have an extra red connector... another Canuk LC mystery like the split tail/plate unit that no other market got. More info here:
http://rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/4 ... -wire-seat
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15200

Anyway, thats all she wrote for now as Im calling a halt to this build until January. Catch you back here in 2018 for more updates!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 11:18 pm 
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Looks pretty amazing to me. The bike, not the body work.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 12:10 am 
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Thanks mate.

I pulled this one off the lift today to put up my 421 rebuild. I did have a go at fixing the waterpump gasket (time will tell) and filled and bled the oil pump. I also did an initial bleed on the brakes, I reckon they will need a second go. Always the same when you use all new or refurbished parts.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 2:49 am 
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Make sure to post pics of the new"old" project too.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 2:45 am 
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Well so much for good intentions... I needed to find a set of smaller sub-projects to occupy me while i recuperate as working on the 421 is too much work for me right now, most parts weigh more than what Im allowed to lift if nothing else. First up I looked out the 4L0-01 carbs for this bike with their rebuild kits, re zinc'd screws/fittings and of course a set of new brass balls.

Ive cleaned these carbs before and fitted the correct jets, but it was time to go 'balls out!'. This involves drilling out the 4.5mm brass balls that cover the air correction jets and then ultrasonically cleaning the carbs, checking the jets flow and then fitting new balls. Its been covered in plenty of places online so have a google if youve not seen this, but this pic from an AC site gives a good internal view of the Mikuni carbs:

Image

Next, it was time to build everything back up with new seals, gaskets and fuel check valves before checking the float heights, which were both very out, hmm.

I even replaced one of the needles that was worn (the anodising was off it) with a brand new 5K1 I managed to find a while back as a NOS yamaha part. If you didnt know those needles have been NLA for a while now. Also fitted was a brand new choke, yes one that actually clicks on and stays there LOL! These chokes are silly money, but this bike deserved one of course :) Anyway, with those parts fitted these carbs should be back to rude health.

The only thing that lets them down is the idle screws and springs which I should have re zinc'd. I might slip them into the next batch...

With all that done these sure are ready for the brand new OEM inlet rubbers when the arrive, the LC could soon be a runner!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:24 am 
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JonW wrote:

Ive cleaned these carbs before and fitted the correct jets, but it was time to go 'balls out!'. This involves drilling out the 4.5mm brass balls that cover the air correction jets and then ultrasonically cleaning the carbs, checking the jets flow and then fitting new balls. Its been covered in plenty of places online so have a google if youve not seen this, but this pic from an AC site gives a good internal view of the Mikuni carbs:

Image


With all that done these sure are ready for the brand new OEM inlet rubbers when the arrive, the LC could soon be a runner!


Either new brass balls or if you want re-entry then tap the hole for a 5mm grub screw so you don't have the hassle of cleaning up the brass shavings from the drilling

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 6:34 pm 
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Or refit the ones you drilled, so long as you only did them part thru lol. I fitted new ones, I want everything to look as 'new' as possible :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:38 am 
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Nice.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 8:44 am 
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Ok, its been so hot here this week that the stick on wheel weights on my LC wheels have fallen off...

To be fair its been mid 40's in the sun, so my garage would have been upper 50s. but still... how annoying, I'll have to pull them off the bike and rebalance them :(

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Like Watches? You will love www.PloProf.com & www.DeskDivers.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 10:06 am 
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You guyz in Oz with your heat, wow. I'm sure I could never convince my better half to go there, just to visit. I'd have to a/c the garage if we lived in that environment. When I get the time to work on the bikes, I would not want to have to go out to that. I'm guessing when it's that warm, things slow down quite a bit?

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