+1motoholic71 wrote:Any switch will work, it will flow a few tenths of amp for a second or 2 so not a problem.
When activated the kill switch connects one of the CDI inputs to Ground.
This requires two wires/conductors running to the switch.
'IF' the outer sheathing of your replica cable adjuster/cable housing is metal, you could use it as one of the conductors (probably Ground) going to the switch.
Then you would only have to run 1 wire through the center of the cable housing, back to the CDI input.
Similar idea to a Co-Ax cable.