RD primary/secondary coil tests
Moderator: rztom
RD primary/secondary coil tests
Have no or intermitent spark at both plugs and zippo experience on this issue but found this link to learn possibly how to test the coils:
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... o4goLFTYoZ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Obtained a volt meter. Note the primary tests at 0.33+- 10% and secondary and 3.5 ohms +- at 20% at room temperature - do need to I remove the CDI off the to test it? Thx
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... o4goLFTYoZ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Obtained a volt meter. Note the primary tests at 0.33+- 10% and secondary and 3.5 ohms +- at 20% at room temperature - do need to I remove the CDI off the to test it? Thx
Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
Sorry to say, but that vid is a lil bit off in about 2 major points:
1) The RZ has a double coil. That means if you measured one HT line against ground, you'll measure a "defect" according to Mr. Electric
Measure HT left against HT right and you'll get a value if the coil is ok.
2) If you leave the caps on, you'll measure about 10 kOhms more than unscrewing them and measure the pure copper core. Reason is the stock 5 kOhm resistance for preventing radio disturbance (in combination with another 5 k in the BR type spark plug)
PS: I virtually ran in the garage to confirm what I thought with a coil I have laying around. So save yourself the work of doing it on your own ...
And to answer the initial question: I unplug the primary to measure, so yes, CDI disconnected.
1) The RZ has a double coil. That means if you measured one HT line against ground, you'll measure a "defect" according to Mr. Electric
Measure HT left against HT right and you'll get a value if the coil is ok.
2) If you leave the caps on, you'll measure about 10 kOhms more than unscrewing them and measure the pure copper core. Reason is the stock 5 kOhm resistance for preventing radio disturbance (in combination with another 5 k in the BR type spark plug)
PS: I virtually ran in the garage to confirm what I thought with a coil I have laying around. So save yourself the work of doing it on your own ...
And to answer the initial question: I unplug the primary to measure, so yes, CDI disconnected.
Bye
Martin
Martin
Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
Danke, Martin.
Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
The culprit. Located a spare: hooked up - got spark. Done.
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Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
Almost 40 years old and it packs up? What a rip off!
Rory
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
Content it was not the CDI as I don't have a spare for that and understand they are NLA.
Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
Never mind, but nobody needs stock CDI's anymore unless you're the folk that buys original japanese canned air from the 80's to keep EVERYTING stocker than stock.
There's a couple of pretty cheap alternatives for normal people.
There's a couple of pretty cheap alternatives for normal people.
Bye
Martin
Martin
Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
If stock is normal, that's what was achieved and I'm content. That said, I'm looking to rebuild an updated 2nd RD - what are the updated CDI versions for a primary coil & CDI recommended? With respect to the windings, the only improvement that I'm aware of is a lighter flywheel.
Re: RD primary/secondary coil tests
In a nutshell: all-in-one DC CDI's even work with faulty source coils and add some 3-4 kW if you program a curve with higher advance. They also offer a programmable YPVS which adds to a performance gain (even on stock engines) if programmed right.
So just one box replaces three potential troublemakers and adds more hp than average pipes
Manufacturers are ignitech.cz and zeeltronic.com and you can buy directly there for a range of some 200 - 300 Eur.
The less you can do yourself and the more you need plug and play stuff, the more you ought to buy at your local RD specialist (at a higher price that includes the experience...)
I have a whole chapter about that electrical helpers in my tuning manual (info on http://rd350.gmxhome.de" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
So just one box replaces three potential troublemakers and adds more hp than average pipes
Manufacturers are ignitech.cz and zeeltronic.com and you can buy directly there for a range of some 200 - 300 Eur.
The less you can do yourself and the more you need plug and play stuff, the more you ought to buy at your local RD specialist (at a higher price that includes the experience...)
I have a whole chapter about that electrical helpers in my tuning manual (info on http://rd350.gmxhome.de" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
Bye
Martin
Martin