R1 Dash cluster

[(F5)]

Any one tried one of these to calibrate the speedo?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SpeedoDRD-Y1 ... e73&_uhb=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Dave

One has just arrived in my in tray a couple of days ago. Its small. That's all I can say & I'm struggling with time to test it. Hopefully I'll get to it next month. Just plugs inline to the R1 dash loom. Also would have fit my Tiger, but you can just do that adjustment with a VAG cable & free tuneecu sw.

I had a Jaycar kit calibrator, but it became unreliable.

[JonW]

My understanding is that the issue is that the R1 expects 57 teeth, so the 17 of the RZ needs boosting by more than 100%, and this unit says 'Ratio based correction in 0.1% steps, up to 99.9% + or -'

[South_Oz]

Good point Jon. Might have to keep looking.

Dave

[steveloomis]

My son is using a Speedohealer V4, he ordered it for his 07 R6. It was plug and play. Calibration is done with onboard switches. I am using one on my LC with R1 dash. I ordered it with the universal cable and wired it in. Both are working extremely well.

[nikfubar]

Yeah I used the V4 as well, no problems, easy to calibrate just go for a ride and tape a sat nav to your bars & note what the actual speed is compared to the indicated on the R1 speedo then it's a matter of a calculation & a code to input into the V4 & hey presto it reads spot on.

[JonW]

I also have a SHV4, I just dont think anything else cheaper will do this job, hence why i have the SHV4...

[(F5)]

Without any correction mine is only about 40% out so speedosdrd will work fine. Just plugged it in last night and removed the Jaycar kit which also worked but was inconsistent. Then just had to find why it stopped reading at all. Hello, what is this jangling between the pipes? Oh. (Blush) the sender! The thin bracket I'd made out of something convenient had fractured. Well that will do it. Glad it didn't get chewed up in the chain.

[steveloomis]

My first attempt with the Cherry Sensor failed due to vibration cracking the mount. I then use the matching sensor from an R1, which is way smaller than the Cherry unit. It works very well with about 1/16" gap.

Here is my mounting method. I used an aluminum strap about 1/8" thick, drilled a hole the size of the shifter shaft then bent it inwards for clearance and at the top underside of the case I bent an "L" shape. I drilled a 5mm hole, used a hex head bolt and lock nut to secure it in place. I then used an "L" bracket to the middle to attach the sensor. Has been running well since last summer. I trimmed the nylon spacer the thickness of the strap to maintain the correct spacer position. I can rock the sensor back and forth on the bolt to set the distance to the sprocket teeth as well as in and out to center it on the teeth. I used Nylock nuts and hex head bolts so it will NOT come loose. This is on my LC that uses a 530 chain/sprockets. It was a little tight. A 520 chain/sprocket will have more room. I just had to jockey the strap inwards a little more for clearance.

[nikfubar]

Sounds like you guys need a stronger mounting plate, here's how I made mine & it's been running fine for 2 years. There are 3 fixing points into the casing, two lugs into the side casing & one into the top crank case (bracket welded on the back) I ground off some of the ali side case to allow for the bracket to sit in flush.

[(F5)]

Yeah I won't be so much in a hurry next time to use bits easy to hand. I find a job goes much quicker if you don't bother to do it properly. Besides I was keen to get it going.

Brackets are still a faff though, wish I'd drilled a hole in the cases when it was apart and mounted it proper against a driven gear.

I might have to steal your design Nik, thanks for posting.

[JonW]

Nik, any chance you fancy fabbing up a couple more?

[(F5)]

Crumbs 4 months on and I've just managed to make a simple bracket. I didn't bother to photo it as it isn't easy to replicate the captured nut I used in the 2nd hole I drilled but I just made a simple thick steel right angled bracket.

I spun the wheel by hand and it showed up 5kph with a fair effort to get to that speed so up the speedo drd works. Just need to adjust it and test ride

[(F5)]

Just as an update I rolled e bike town the driveway and just got up to 10kph. The instructions for the speedo drd seem long winded but once you get programming using one button and a multicolour LED it's actually a lot easier than when read. Added 44% and next roll from same line got 14kph. Result. I've got a speedo app on my phone so I'll calibrate it later.

Or on the dyno, I have just done the YPVS box adjustable mod so need to dial that in.

[JonW]

all good progress :)