Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
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Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Hi
I am busy restoring my RZ350R and am doing a ground up engine upgrade/restore, does anyone know how to get the factory black look on the upper crankcase, Barrels and Head. I am sure if I spray these the paint will eventually burn off. The factory look seems almost powder coated.
Anyone doen this before and has a suggestion?
I am busy restoring my RZ350R and am doing a ground up engine upgrade/restore, does anyone know how to get the factory black look on the upper crankcase, Barrels and Head. I am sure if I spray these the paint will eventually burn off. The factory look seems almost powder coated.
Anyone doen this before and has a suggestion?
Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Welcome. I think the upper crankcase it powder coated. Not sure what they used on the barrels. When I had mine apart and bored, I washed the bores out with soap and water (and reoiled) but whatever the black was pretty much came off.
I used caliper paint on mine and it hasn't moved. I don't think either the crankcase or the barrels get hotter than a caliper.
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I used caliper paint on mine and it hasn't moved. I don't think either the crankcase or the barrels get hotter than a caliper.
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Live long, and smoke 'em if you got 'em!
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Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Most certainly are NOT powder coated. Its black paint of some sort.
PJ1 satin is often mentioned as an option. I also use caliper paint but it is more glossy than the original finish.
PJ1 satin is often mentioned as an option. I also use caliper paint but it is more glossy than the original finish.
Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
That is true
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Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
The only problem with caliper paint is it stains really easy from gas or oil, I use Duplicolor etching primer and semi gloss paint on the barrels, Cases and head, The clutch case and ststor case get gloss, Looks good.
1985 RZv500
1984 RZ500 Hybrid
1986 RG500 Walter Wolf
1986 RG500 Skoal Bandit
1984 RZ350
1984 RZ350 Hybrid
1981 RD350LC
1981 RD350LC Hybrid
2009 CR500AF Supermoto 250X
2007 CR500AF 250X
1988 YSR50 (2)
1984 GPZ750 Turbo
1989 VFR750R RC30
1984 RZ500 Hybrid
1986 RG500 Walter Wolf
1986 RG500 Skoal Bandit
1984 RZ350
1984 RZ350 Hybrid
1981 RD350LC
1981 RD350LC Hybrid
2009 CR500AF Supermoto 250X
2007 CR500AF 250X
1988 YSR50 (2)
1984 GPZ750 Turbo
1989 VFR750R RC30
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Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Caliper paint also chips/rubs off easily even during re-assembly. I have tried baking on and also not. My prep was not superb though. Not recommended to powder coat air cooled engine parts. I do not see any reason not to do so with Liquid cooled but you do not see it done often.
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Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Okay, you will find dozens of replies all using diffrent products, the majority being spray cans. I've used most of them at some point in time, many if not most store bought are straight crap...period. Others do offer better cosmetic results with decent longevity, PJ1, Duplicolor, Kal Guard are some examples and deliver a "fairly" decent result, especially for a quick fixer , dirt bike, daily driver or resale applications. Many of these will work okay for that purpose but are still suseptible to heat,durability and fuel & chemical exposure.CapeTownRZ350R wrote:Hi
I am busy restoring my RZ350R and am doing a ground up engine upgrade/restore, does anyone know how to get the factory black look on the upper crankcase, Barrels and Head. I am sure if I spray these the paint will eventually burn off. The factory look seems almost powder coated.
Anyone doen this before and has a suggestion?
Powder costing is tough as nails, but it is thick, and scratches and dulls easily and cannot be touched up, and cost has to be considered as well.
For a restoration or a keeper, you need to consider a more durable paint. While I dont know what Yamaha Motor Corp. originally used for sure, its a fair bet they used a catalyzed 2-part enamel or epoxy based paint and frankley IMO this is the best way to go. There simply is no substitute for using 2-part mixed materials on anything. Step up to the next level & leave the $8.00 rattle cans behind.
The engine is a tough enviorment for paint to survive, and even many factory finishes eventually sucumb to the abuse, but the application of a 2-part will give to you to the toughest, most durable and chemical and fuel resistant finish possible with the longest service life.
I may have made your life & others here a whole lot easier.. While I have not personally used this product (yet).. I will !! as its a FRIGGIN "HEAT RESISTANT 600° 2-PART CATALYZED PAINT IN A FRIGGIN SPRAY CAN!!! Its the same as a mixed 2-part paint applied with a spray gun. It the surface is clean & sound no etching primer required either! Its a "special can with twin internal chambers" thats activated by the user, its then good for a day or so before it hardens
How can you beat that for under $30.00 dollars? You cant! Here is the product its from the Eastwood Company, if you dont want it in a spray can, then you can buy the seperate paints and catalyzer (hardener)as well to be applied by a recomended spray gun of your choice, but the ease of use and application of the can is almost too good to pass up.
Heres the link:
http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-ht ... black.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If you do try it, Wear a mask prep it (perfectly) & please review it here. I dont see any reason it wont work nor be substantially more durable than the above store bought products.
A side note* I've added automotive "hardener" to rustoleum and other enamels before and have had good results, but never on a motor & before attempting it definatley do a dry run test on something begore hand to ensure compaability.
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96 GSXR SRAD, Future Yoshimura rep.
85 custom Tri-Z
RZ/YZR bike(project)
86 VFR750 RC24 Merkel replica (project)
Royal Enfield Bullet 500
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Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Above is good info on using a 2-part catalyzed paint. It will be more durable and chemical resistant.
Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Really good info there.
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Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
I use a high temp engine paint in low gloss black. It is 1/2 way between flat and gloss and seems to match up on most Yamaha engines. I think it is duplicolor 1634.
Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Yamaha does use a epoxy based paint. I used a fairly harsh solvent bath overnight to remove it, as I prefer "as cast" look.
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Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
I have had really good luck with monokote fuel proof paint for RC airplanes. I have been using that stuff on GS 1100 cases for years.
Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Really? OEM was 2 part Paint ? Don't think so ..the oem finish wipes off.. IF one tries.
Yama was Cheap.. They used cheap paint.. which is why Rattle can paints do such a good facsimile.
Rattle can Appliance epoxy (yeah Stoopid name) paint does a Very credible 'lookalike' job and actually seems More durable than the oem stuff.
Yama was Cheap.. They used cheap paint.. which is why Rattle can paints do such a good facsimile.
Rattle can Appliance epoxy (yeah Stoopid name) paint does a Very credible 'lookalike' job and actually seems More durable than the oem stuff.
Re: Engine crankcases and barrell paint finisih
Get someone to bead or vapour blast barrels first. Mask sealing and bores. Having a good key will get you there.
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