RZ/RD 350 & Misc. 2-Stroke Tech BBS

I dont see a parts included list.

When ordering up one of their fork bearing conversion kits, do the kits come as bearings only or are. "new races", dust seals & washers included?

Any info appreciated.

http://www.allballsracing.com/steering/22-1007.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

22-1007 - Tapered bearings and 2 dust seals - that's the part No. for '84 RZ350

most dest seals in the kits are crap, reuse the OEM one, its well made.

washers?

^ conversion kits guys
is different to the std kit for the 350

They come with the races, seals and sometimes washers. I've bought several

converting what to what then? kits probably differ in what they include... And many front end convs dont need different brgs on the RZ, just a spacer, ie RGV = 5mm etc.

How does one pull off a stuck bottom (pressed on) race?
(stuck on the botom triple clamp).

I'm in the process of developing/doing a front end conversion, from a 1989 GSX750F Katana donor.
(41mm forks, 290mm rotors, 3.0x17 wheels)
Seems to be pretty straight forward..... the allballs conversion kit comes with 2 washers...
2-3mm total.. (just got em, haven't measured anything yet).
No idea about steering stops yet.... nor how to mount the instrument cluster...
Cross bridge when come to it..

I'm just wondering if the races are the same.... the conv kit and stock RZ replacement...
So I can put the stock front end back on to ride it, while I work out all the details....

Here is a link to Allballs "installation-guide" for fork conversions using their conv kits:
http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/onlin ... rsion-kit/

Take a grinder/cutting disc to the race, very carefully cut it diagonally, but not all the way through.
Smack it with a cold chisel and hammer.
It will either split/shatter or start to turn and wind its way up the stem.

Thanks, thats VERY helpful!
I was wondering about doing that...

There is a puller specifically for that, I think Motion Pro make one, but $$$. Maybe a bike shop could pull it off. I have used splitter type pullers to get under the race and press the stem through, or if steering stops interfere I have also supported the lower triple and pressed the stem through it to get the bearing up far enough to remove, then turned it over and pressed the stem back in. There will be a shoulder or snap ring to locate it at the proper depth. If you start whacking bearings with chisels wear gloves and safety glasses, I have had steel go very deep into my hand doing this. Localized heat on the race will make it come off easier as well, and if it's a hollow stem you could cool the middle.

Saving $$$ was the idea... lol...
Esp for a "one time tool" (ok, maybe 3 times, lifetime..)

Stem is welded... as are some RZ stems...

Maybe I'll break down and try a bike shop.. (if i can find one around here)..
Might even ask at my auto shop.... they might even have the right tool... and be willing.
A few light whacks with hammer and chisel under.... might just reveal if just a few more whacks will do it.
At least if it budges, Im halfway home...

If whacking wont work, then you need to do this... dont pay for something you can do yourself.

ghezzi wrote:Take a grinder/cutting disc to the race, very carefully cut it diagonally, but not all the way through.
Smack it with a cold chisel and hammer.
It will either split/shatter or start to turn and wind its way up the stem.

Loctite make a product called Freeze and Release that might help with splitting the race once you have cut it, or use it to chill the stem after you have warmed the bearing. You can also invert one of those computer duster cans for a similar short term effect (maybe keep it away from open flame if you are heating at the same time).

Thanks again for the tips...
Gotta think on this a bit..

Cold chisel under the race. Clean up any damage afterwards with files, if any.