R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
Moderator: rztom
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
Hi guys. I'll try to dig out the old photos.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Jesse Walters
NESBA #013
2007 KTM 990 Adv. S
1972 Honda CB 750 K2
1985 Yamaha RZ350
NESBA #013
2007 KTM 990 Adv. S
1972 Honda CB 750 K2
1985 Yamaha RZ350
-
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:52 pm
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
That would be great. I'm doing an R6 front end right now and your pics would help a great deal. Thanks!
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
+1rd400racer wrote:That would be great. I'm doing an R6 front end right now and your pics would help a great deal. Thanks!
current stable:
85 RZ350, the 'Yellow Bee'
85 RZ350 frame, awaiting project start
85 RZ350, the 'Yellow Bee'
85 RZ350 frame, awaiting project start
- RZResurection
- Posts: 1233
- Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2006 9:51 pm
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
Either one (R6 or R1) is an easy swap. Nothing is ever 'plug n play'. Biggest thing is to get the right bearings for the head tube and the stem. I had to fab up the stops so the bars didn't slap the tank. That was the hardest part.
Get some spacers made so that your stem locks in.
The part that sucked was losing my speedo. I spent a lot of time looking for a retro fit. Not sure that I'm happy with my choice - not bad, but could be better.
Check out my build thread.
Get some spacers made so that your stem locks in.
The part that sucked was losing my speedo. I spent a lot of time looking for a retro fit. Not sure that I'm happy with my choice - not bad, but could be better.
Check out my build thread.
Jeff
Trying to build a bike that's as fast as my memories
87 Canadian 1WV
OEM Pipes
Gutted Airbox
VF4 Reeds
Milled Head (0.020")
Main 240
Pilot 27.5
02 R1 Front End
R6 Shock and Rims (180 Rear Tire)
84 FJ1100 Swingarm
Trying to build a bike that's as fast as my memories
87 Canadian 1WV
OEM Pipes
Gutted Airbox
VF4 Reeds
Milled Head (0.020")
Main 240
Pilot 27.5
02 R1 Front End
R6 Shock and Rims (180 Rear Tire)
84 FJ1100 Swingarm
-
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:52 pm
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
Notch the frame inside before you put the races in. Makes pulling them out much easier.
84 RZ. Half naked, SpecIIs, GSXR front end, FZ swingarm, SV rear wheel, trail tech speedo/tach
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
+1
80 XT500 Supermoto!
81 RD350LC Resto
82 RD421LC Hybrid
82 RD350LC decapitation project
82 RD250LC JDM '251LC' YPVS
83 RZ350 Resto
84 RZ500 Resto
85 RZ350 F1 Resto
86 RZ350 F2 Resto
86 RZ350 F2 Hybrid
Like Watches? www.PloProf.com & www.DeskDivers.com
81 RD350LC Resto
82 RD421LC Hybrid
82 RD350LC decapitation project
82 RD250LC JDM '251LC' YPVS
83 RZ350 Resto
84 RZ500 Resto
85 RZ350 F1 Resto
86 RZ350 F2 Resto
86 RZ350 F2 Hybrid
Like Watches? www.PloProf.com & www.DeskDivers.com
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
I think i understand how this works but the picture a few posts above seems to be missing things and confuses me a bit.
Bare with me as i talk this out
From the bottom of the steering stem up.
the spacer is first (do you still use rubber seal around new spacer?) Ill might mess with it and try and make it work somehow.
then the dust seal
and finally the complete roller bearing
The lower bearing which obviously sits in the new roller race which is pressed into the lower steering tube
The spacer takes up the excess space between the dust seal and the bottom of the steering stem/lower triple that is created by the long "skirt" of the rz's lower steering tube. This allows everything to be snugged up with out the steering tube skit making contact with the lower triple clamp before the various bits get tightened up. Right?
I just assume the top goes together just like the R1 after the bearings go in the stem.
Dust seal
notched nut
washer
notched nut
lock washer
washer
steering stem nut
Either way, the top is easier to work out than the bottom if issues arise.
By George i think i got it
Bare with me as i talk this out
From the bottom of the steering stem up.
the spacer is first (do you still use rubber seal around new spacer?) Ill might mess with it and try and make it work somehow.
then the dust seal
and finally the complete roller bearing
The lower bearing which obviously sits in the new roller race which is pressed into the lower steering tube
The spacer takes up the excess space between the dust seal and the bottom of the steering stem/lower triple that is created by the long "skirt" of the rz's lower steering tube. This allows everything to be snugged up with out the steering tube skit making contact with the lower triple clamp before the various bits get tightened up. Right?
I just assume the top goes together just like the R1 after the bearings go in the stem.
Dust seal
notched nut
washer
notched nut
lock washer
washer
steering stem nut
Either way, the top is easier to work out than the bottom if issues arise.
By George i think i got it
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
And now, the steering stops need to be addressed.
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
^ i figure ill just weld on to the existing tab on the steering tube. Not sure which would be better, this or altering the stops on the lower triple. I figure extending the current tab will only make it weaker as it will be longer but it just seems like the easier route plus i figure altering the existing stops will only weaken them as well
- RZResurection
- Posts: 1233
- Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2006 9:51 pm
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
I just took a piece of angle iron and welded it on. I had to do some grinding later on to get it so that the bars had max travel without hitting the tank.
Jeff
Trying to build a bike that's as fast as my memories
87 Canadian 1WV
OEM Pipes
Gutted Airbox
VF4 Reeds
Milled Head (0.020")
Main 240
Pilot 27.5
02 R1 Front End
R6 Shock and Rims (180 Rear Tire)
84 FJ1100 Swingarm
Trying to build a bike that's as fast as my memories
87 Canadian 1WV
OEM Pipes
Gutted Airbox
VF4 Reeds
Milled Head (0.020")
Main 240
Pilot 27.5
02 R1 Front End
R6 Shock and Rims (180 Rear Tire)
84 FJ1100 Swingarm
Re: R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
^ that definitely looks solid, I guess i was thinking of just welding a small piece on but it makes more sense to put on a little larger piece that makes good contact with everything with decent surface area
- Consciousness
- Posts: 409
- Joined: Sun Jul 21, 2013 12:28 pm
- Location: The Big Apple
Re:
Thanks, i was interested in the what the benefits were also, It's more expensive than i realized so not possible for me atm. I did change the springs in the front to .75 Kg/mm race tech running Motul 20W and feel the front end is overly stiff especially over expansion strips on the highway which led to a scary bar wobble going around a corner at 80mph.smurph wrote:The RZ handles like a dream with with R1 forks. 98-01 R1 forks have a spring rate of .750 kg/mm. Race-Tech suggests .710 kg/mm for a "race" spring rate and a 170 lb. rider (including gear). So if you weigh 170 lbs. without gear, the .750 hg/mm feels quite comfortable. Now, it does not feel the same as the spongy/springy/mushy ride that the original .450 kg/mm spring rate of the original RZ forks, so the change does feel quite drastic at first. The more I ride mine, the more I like it. But I can see where some might not like them because the bike no longer "feels" like an RZ.
One thing you notice right from the start with R1 forks is increased ridgidity. It wasn't too hard to get the original forks to flex. Even with my telifix fork brace, I could feel the front end flex when pushed. This sensation is now totally gone. Now you can feel the frame flex! With the R1 forks, the weak link is no longer the front end.
The next thing you notice is what real brakes feel like. With the comparitively huge rotors, modern calipers, and stiffness to to control higher braking forces, the R1 forks offer a completely wonderful braking experience. The word I would use to describe it is "awesome".
And get this... Even though the 41mm stantion tubes on the 98-01 R1 forks are complete and utter overkill for the RZ350, the whole setup weighs less than the original forks.
All that being said, if you are an aggressive rider, you will like the R1 forks. If you just toodle around on rough city streets, you will most likely find them uncomfortable and you may need to get them re-sprung to about .650 kg/mm.
Steve
I also replaced the rear with a CBR400 RR (baby blade) shock so i thought i would need the .75 to keep in balance but after reading your comment i realize it's probably too stiff. Would swapping oil make a big difference?
85 RZ350 KR. Racetech/Fox Motul 10W. Telefix, Prog. Zeel, VForce4's, VM30 Mik's Uni-Filters & UFOs, Grooved Head & Mild Port w/Boyesen's by Rich's Taylor'd Porting, Orig. Toomeys, Redline, Conti Attack2.