R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)

[MikeD]

if bumping this old thread is a party foul then apologies, but wanted to see if the original photos could be relinked somehow? right now the photos don't show...

[Whymee]

Jwalters has not posted since Jan 16, 2010. He is the one you need to contact. Might try PM or emailing him.

[jwalters]

Hi guys. I'll try to dig out the old photos.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

[rd400racer]

That would be great. I'm doing an R6 front end right now and your pics would help a great deal. Thanks!

[MikeD]

That would be great. I'm doing an R6 front end right now and your pics would help a great deal. Thanks!

+1

[RZResurection]

Either one (R6 or R1) is an easy swap. Nothing is ever 'plug n play'. Biggest thing is to get the right bearings for the head tube and the stem. I had to fab up the stops so the bars didn't slap the tank. That was the hardest part.

Get some spacers made so that your stem locks in.

The part that sucked was losing my speedo. I spent a lot of time looking for a retro fit. Not sure that I'm happy with my choice - not bad, but could be better.

Check out my build thread.

[rd400racer]

My main concern is...am I doing the spacers correctly? The first pic here is a mock-up without the bottom bearing in (don't want to press it in until I'm sure). Everything fit fine and it felt good even without the bottom bearing in.

Second pic is kind of an exploded view of how I put it together.

[ricar]

Notch the frame inside before you put the races in. Makes pulling them out much easier.

[JonW]

+1

[subxero]

I think i understand how this works but the picture a few posts above seems to be missing things and confuses me a bit.

Bare with me as i talk this out

From the bottom of the steering stem up.

the spacer is first (do you still use rubber seal around new spacer?) Ill might mess with it and try and make it work somehow.
then the dust seal
and finally the complete roller bearing

The lower bearing which obviously sits in the new roller race which is pressed into the lower steering tube

The spacer takes up the excess space between the dust seal and the bottom of the steering stem/lower triple that is created by the long "skirt" of the rz's lower steering tube. This allows everything to be snugged up with out the steering tube skit making contact with the lower triple clamp before the various bits get tightened up. Right?

I just assume the top goes together just like the R1 after the bearings go in the stem.
Dust seal
notched nut
washer
notched nut
lock washer
washer
steering stem nut

Either way, the top is easier to work out than the bottom if issues arise.

By George i think i got it

[mkane]

And now, the steering stops need to be addressed.

[subxero]

^ i figure ill just weld on to the existing tab on the steering tube. Not sure which would be better, this or altering the stops on the lower triple. I figure extending the current tab will only make it weaker as it will be longer but it just seems like the easier route plus i figure altering the existing stops will only weaken them as well

[RZResurection]

I just took a piece of angle iron and welded it on. I had to do some grinding later on to get it so that the bars had max travel without hitting the tank.

[subxero]

^ that definitely looks solid, I guess i was thinking of just welding a small piece on but it makes more sense to put on a little larger piece that makes good contact with everything with decent surface area

[Consciousness]

The RZ handles like a dream with with R1 forks. 98-01 R1 forks have a spring rate of .750 kg/mm. Race-Tech suggests .710 kg/mm for a "race" spring rate and a 170 lb. rider (including gear). So if you weigh 170 lbs. without gear, the .750 hg/mm feels quite comfortable. Now, it does not feel the same as the spongy/springy/mushy ride that the original .450 kg/mm spring rate of the original RZ forks, so the change does feel quite drastic at first. The more I ride mine, the more I like it. But I can see where some might not like them because the bike no longer "feels" like an RZ.

One thing you notice right from the start with R1 forks is increased ridgidity. It wasn't too hard to get the original forks to flex. Even with my telifix fork brace, I could feel the front end flex when pushed. This sensation is now totally gone. Now you can feel the frame flex! With the R1 forks, the weak link is no longer the front end.

The next thing you notice is what real brakes feel like. With the comparitively huge rotors, modern calipers, and stiffness to to control higher braking forces, the R1 forks offer a completely wonderful braking experience. The word I would use to describe it is "awesome".

And get this... Even though the 41mm stantion tubes on the 98-01 R1 forks are complete and utter overkill for the RZ350, the whole setup weighs less than the original forks.

All that being said, if you are an aggressive rider, you will like the R1 forks. If you just toodle around on rough city streets, you will most likely find them uncomfortable and you may need to get them re-sprung to about .650 kg/mm.

Steve

Thanks, i was interested in the what the benefits were also, It's more expensive than i realized so not possible for me atm. I did change the springs in the front to .75 Kg/mm race tech running Motul 20W and feel the front end is overly stiff especially over expansion strips on the highway which led to a scary bar wobble going around a corner at 80mph.

I also replaced the rear with a CBR400 RR (baby blade) shock so i thought i would need the .75 to keep in balance but after reading your comment i realize it's probably too stiff. Would swapping oil make a big difference?