1989 RZ350
Moderator: rztom
1989 RZ350
Hi,
I just purchased a 1989 RZ350 today but dont know anything about the regular maintenance requirements. Are there any downloadable manuals for this bike (I searched the board and got confused)? Here's the craigslist pic. Riding it home tomorrow and I'll post some pics. Thanks!
I just purchased a 1989 RZ350 today but dont know anything about the regular maintenance requirements. Are there any downloadable manuals for this bike (I searched the board and got confused)? Here's the craigslist pic. Riding it home tomorrow and I'll post some pics. Thanks!
There's one in Montreal for $1000. with a blown engine .
http://www.lespac.com/vehicules/motos/m ... 75WWgrZZ12
Or a nice 1990 for $2300. ( big money IMO )
http://www.lespac.com/vehicules/motos/l ... 75WWgrZZ12
http://www.lespac.com/vehicules/motos/m ... 75WWgrZZ12
Or a nice 1990 for $2300. ( big money IMO )
http://www.lespac.com/vehicules/motos/l ... 75WWgrZZ12
Sorry no pics yet. It was on craigslist in Vancouver, Canada. I see them pop up once in a while. It has 36,000 kms. Some cracks in the fairings. Everything is original that I know of. Paid $2k. I've ridden it twice and it is awesome. The smell, the power, awesome.
I do have 2 questions. When the fuel switch is up does it draw from the main tank and down for reserve? And is the rear shock adjustable?
I do have 2 questions. When the fuel switch is up does it draw from the main tank and down for reserve? And is the rear shock adjustable?
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The rear shock is adjustable with the proper wrench.
Petcock positions are RES at top ON at bottom and PRI in the middle. You should be able to see it. The knob stays in the ON position when the bike is off. It's vacuum controlled and ON becomes OFF with no vacuum applied. Never leave it in PRI and walk away. If you have a sticky float valve it will get messy in a hurry.
Be careful riding the bike if it's cold/cool out there. The temperature will seriously affect jetting and you'll have a meltdown. It will always run best on the ragged edge of lean. Step over that line and it's get expensive fast.
Petcock positions are RES at top ON at bottom and PRI in the middle. You should be able to see it. The knob stays in the ON position when the bike is off. It's vacuum controlled and ON becomes OFF with no vacuum applied. Never leave it in PRI and walk away. If you have a sticky float valve it will get messy in a hurry.
Be careful riding the bike if it's cold/cool out there. The temperature will seriously affect jetting and you'll have a meltdown. It will always run best on the ragged edge of lean. Step over that line and it's get expensive fast.
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In the cold you shouldn't ride it at all without rejetting, or at the very least verifying the current jetting. Since you don't know what the jetting is now you should probably just park it until you pull the carbs and look. You can't assume it's properly jetted. Doing so may cost you. If it was jetted for warm August weather at 3500 feet and it's now a lot colder and the altitude is a lot lower you'll have problems. You need more main jet as temperatue and elevation decrease. You don't know what the jetting is now. It might be fine or it might be way off. What elevation was it jetted at and what elevation are you at now? It all matters. That's the trouble with buying someone else's bike. You have no idea what they did. Best to play it safe and have a look to see what you have now. Not ckecking can cost you big time.bhoneydew wrote:Thanks for the tips. How long should I warm it up before riding? How do you ride it differently in the cold? All tips are welcome as I don't want to damage the bike due to my ignorance.
By the way...cool username. Used to watch that show a lot. Still miss the humour. Poor Beaker sure got the short end of the stick.