Water pump port mods.

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alan1949
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Water pump port mods.

#1 Post by alan1949 » Sat Aug 01, 2015 4:05 pm

Saw a recent reference to a ported water pump on a RZ 350.Anyone any clarification or comments?

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JonW
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#2 Post by JonW » Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:32 pm

If it was a ref to my posts then its cos the castings are not always clean, look into them and check and port out the flashing as needed :)
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alan1949
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#3 Post by alan1949 » Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:50 am

I saw "ported water pump" as part of the spec for an engine I saw for sale. I agree about the casting flash. I have found flash in the 3 outer covers I have. Just wondered what else in the spec was BS.

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Re: Water pump port mods.

#4 Post by JonW » Mon Aug 03, 2015 6:07 pm

I doubt very much there is much you can do to port it to make the water flow faster/better etc, so yeah bs... what does the rest say i wonder.
80 XT500 Supermoto!
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82 RD350LC decapitation project
82 RD250LC JDM '251LC' YPVS
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Bare
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#5 Post by Bare » Mon Aug 10, 2015 11:46 pm

It's Not an 'improvement/beneficial' to Speed up the flow of cooling water.
Water needs a bit of time to absorb all the heat in the metals.

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JonW
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#6 Post by JonW » Tue Aug 11, 2015 12:51 am

Its a funny old thing this cooling lark. Some say the hi flow water impellers are the go and some say the bigger rads, some say both... some say Yamaha got it right. I like the larger rads for the Aussie climate, but there is a school of thought that says they cool too well on cooler days and that you need to blank off part of the rad or fit a higher flow impeller. Each to his own, its not like anyone ever tested the RZs ability to cool at diff ambient temps and speeds, mostly its a case of you either like what you fit or dont I guess. No one will do said tests now I fear, we are a small market, propped up in this area by the 'shee having a product and the Chinese wanting to make money LOL

Next week, I need 600 words on 'Silicone hoses or not in the RZ?', on my desk by noon Monday class! :D
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81 RD350LC Resto
82 RD421LC Hybrid
82 RD350LC decapitation project
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#7 Post by evan_calgary » Tue Aug 11, 2015 7:27 pm

I guess the only advantage I could see would be to essentially 'blueprint' the motor by getting the casting junk out of the way to get the water passages up to where Yamaha intended.

Is the larger rad another issue altogether though? Yes you can potentially run too cool but you sure as heck don't want to overheat and melt down your motor. I have seen the temp scarily high in stop and go traffic that made me wish I had a larger rad or a cooling fan.

alan1949
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#8 Post by alan1949 » Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:12 pm

I think cooling efficiency can be enhanced by modding the waterways at the head rather than at the pump to improve flow at the hot spots.

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Re: Water pump port mods.

#9 Post by JonW » Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:19 pm

Evan, thats a good point. The cooling can be fine when running along the road, but traffic stops the airflow and a fan would be nice. Im fitting one to my 421, it gets very hot in traffic in Aus and I have lots of it where I live :(

Alan, eeek, that can be next weeks essay :D
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#10 Post by wolfman » Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:16 am

Makes no difference to remove metal in the water passages in fact more metal, (more surface area) = more cooling capacity just like the bigger rad. Flowing more water, (velocity) is not the answer. The head is our limit.
Silicone hoses offer longer life that plain rubber.
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#11 Post by JonW » Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:18 am

I disagree if like me you had water passages choked with flashing, removing that was mandatory as it was a restriction for the OEM water flow.

Back in the day it was said that silicone hoses were smoother inside, offering faster flow... no one really believed it, luckily, hence my joke about the essay. I cant see any of us needing longer life than rubber hoses, but hey these days its easier to buy silly hoses than rubber so why not. :)
80 XT500 Supermoto!
81 RD350LC Resto
82 RD421LC Hybrid
82 RD350LC decapitation project
82 RD250LC JDM '251LC' YPVS
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86 RZ350 F2 Hybrid

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Re: Water pump port mods.

#12 Post by (F5) » Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:30 pm

GP bikes pumped huge amounts of water so there is some truth. But they also had narrow passages and considered flow paths preventing still waters. The RZ is like a bucket with a lid with an outlet on one side of the lid and a hose pointing down at the other side of the lid.

Don't lose any sleep over it, unless you live in traffic light hell and some good fans would help.
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#13 Post by wolfman » Sun Aug 16, 2015 2:41 am

(F5) wrote:GP bikes pumped huge amounts of water so there is some truth. But they also had narrow passages and considered flow paths preventing still waters. The RZ is like a bucket with a lid with an outlet on one side of the lid and a hose pointing down at the other side of the lid.

Don't lose any sleep over it, unless you live in traffic light hell and some good fans would help.
True but gp bikes live in the stratosphere of the rpm range and run looser tolerances that street driven versions of kin. As I said, the head is our limit not any other component. Instead of fans and bigger rads, buy a cool or wicked head and be done with it plus you have the option to change domes as well :-$
84 RZ350 Spec II boost ports shaved head
Y boot 29mm PWKs billet manifold TDR Reeds Spec II pipes
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#14 Post by (F5) » Sun Aug 16, 2015 7:22 am

Really? Looser tolerances? What do you mean by that? Piston to bore clearance? Because no. Ring gap? No. Rod side clearance OK maybe.

What would be better would be if the water entered the back of the barrel round the ex ports and then through the head front to back and exit.

Fans are useless if you are moving but the only thing that will help if you get stuck in traffic.
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Re: Water pump port mods.

#15 Post by RuZty » Wed Aug 19, 2015 11:17 am

Agree on the fan comment, but a larger volume rad with more surface area will take longer to overheat at rest, providing some relief if you aren't stopped for extended periods.

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