RZV 500 fuel level sending unit.

Message

Gary Papesh · #1 Post by **Gary Papesh** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:50 pm

O.K. ,I know that the RZV was unique,but if they put a fuel gauge on it, why not the RZ? Since I want the best for my bike,I am going to add a fuel gauge to it. I don't want to build one from scratch it I don't have to,so what part numbers do I need to make it happen. Does anyone know if I can find a microfiche online for this?

Sincerely, Gary Papesh.

#2 Post by **smurph** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:39 am

Why didn't they put a gauge on the RZ? To keep you guessing. It's more exciting that way.

There is a RZV fiche at http://www.rzv500r.net. You might try locating the parts visually. Or unless you can read Japanese characters?

Steve

Matty · #3 Post by **Matty** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:50 am

Hi Gary,
There are no nuts inside the RZ tank to bolt the sender unit to
I've rigged up a fuel gauge on a spare tank I have using the sender unit and it's corresponding metal plate(with nuts) from an FJ 1200.
This plate was welded under the tank where the RZV sender would go.
The float arm needs a tweek to get the level right.
Can take some photos if you'd like.

Gary Papesh · #4 Post by **Gary Papesh** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:27 pm

Thanks to Smurph and Matty. I found the part # on the website,so I have that going for me.
Matty,a few pics would be great,thank you. I suppose the FJ 1200 part would be cheaper and easier to get,I'll try that first.does the Ohm range on the sender unit match up with the rating for the Temp guage? I was going to rig up a toggle switch in some hidden spot to select between Temp and Fuel.
Thanks for all your help Gents,Sincerely,
Gary P.

Matty · #5 Post by **Matty** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:14 am

I've fitted a flip type cap towards the rear of the tank, that's why the sender can be seen from the filler.
Not sure on the Ohm range. What should it be?
I've hooked this tank up onto the bike and attached it to a fuel gauge from an FZ750. Fuel gauge worked fine.
Trying to figure out how to connect up the low level sensor to act as a reserve light.
Anyone have any clues?

#6 Post by **rztom** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 11:19 am

Hi guys... I moved this thread as it was developing more into a modification discussion....

Gary Papesh · #7 Post by **Gary Papesh** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 3:44 pm

Matty,that looks like a pretty neat installation.It sounds like you have it all figured out.My idea was to use a switch to alternate between the temperature sender input,and a fuel level input,and send that to the stock temp gauge. From my knowledge of this,a sending unit is just a specialized variable resistor. At the bottom of the float arm range,the resistance is greatest,less current flows to the gauge,and it reads empty.
When the float arm is raised,more current flows ,and the gauge reads full. Since you are using a fuel gauge ,the parts will work together as designed. Since I am asking one gauge to do two jobs,I need to measure the resistance of the gauge,from empty to full. Then choose a sending unit that matches these values,or maybe add a resistor in line,if needed.How did you seal up the sender? Did the bolts leak?
Hooking up your low reserve light should be easy. Send 12v.DC+ to one wire of the sender unit,not sure which one,I would bench test this before installing. Anyway,since there are only 3 wires,I would assume one is power "in",and one wire goes to the gauge and the other goes to the reserve light. The metal tank being bolted to the frame completes the grounding path. The other wire on the light socket would go to ground. Sincerely, Gary P.

#8 Post by **hybrid** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 11:46 pm

Hi Matty,
I just hooked up a reserve light to my bike.
Basically, the reserve light is a thermistor.
What happens is, the thermistors resistance falls as it heats up (it heats up through having an electrical load), and eventually it falls enough to turn on the light.

You can use either an LED, or a very low wattage incandescent globe.

If you use the incandescent globe, then you can just wire the globe in series with the thermistor.

If you use an LED, then you need to put a resistor in parallel with the LED as the load.

You must be very careful either way you go that your power draw isn't too much for the thermistor, or you will fry it.

This thread may be of help to you:
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=45256&page=3

Let me know if you have any questions.

Gary Papesh · #9 Post by **Gary Papesh** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 12:53 am

Wow Hybrid ,sounds like you really know a lot about this.Sorry Matty, if I steered you wrong. I had heard of thermistors before,but didn't know of any applications of one.In your opinion,do you think my idea of using the temp gauge to double as a fuel gauge will work?
See post above. Sincerely, Gary P.

Matty · #10 Post by **Matty** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:47 am

Gary,
There's a rubber gasket under the mounting plate of the sender that seals the hole for the sender and the bolt holes.
Great idea using the temp gauge for fuel as well, like the RZV.
The FZ 750 gauge has a temp gauge in it as well but it's a little larger than the RZ gauge, I had to modify a spare instrument bracket to fit it.

Hybrid,
Thanks for the link and the info.

#11 Post by **hybrid** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 4:55 am

Gary Papesh wrote:Wow Hybrid ,sounds like you really know a lot about this.Sorry Matty, if I steered you wrong. I had heard of thermistors before,but didn't know of any applications of one.In your opinion,do you think my idea of using the temp gauge to double as a fuel gauge will work?
See post above. Sincerely, Gary P.

Hi Gary,
if both original gauges used the same resistance coils, then yes, it would work.
The thing is, I know of at least two different resistance fuel level senders.
I think H*nda use 500ohm, and Yamaha use 100ohm.
So its safe to say, the gauges for each of these senders would be different.

I certainly can't see you doing any damage either way. It may just be that the needle deflection for fuel vs temperature may not be the same.
For instance, full tank may only show half way on the gauge.
That won't matter though.. as long as you know where full and empty is, that's all that matters!

Gary Papesh · #12 Post by **Gary Papesh** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:47 pm

Thanks hybrid for the info. Then I suppose that I'll just need to find a sender that will swing the full range of the tank's height,to read the level accurately. Another task to be added to the list.
thanks.Sincerely, Gary P.

bolly · #13 Post by **bolly** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:15 pm

anyone have a pic of the cable that attaches to the RZV sending unit? and a pic of the actual terminals on the sending unit the cable attaches to?

thanks much!

Alan_Kiwi · #14 Post by **Alan_Kiwi** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:43 pm

Here you are, it's a complete unit, the cable is permanently fixed to the plate that bolts onto the tank. I don't know if it's just my bike but the gauge is very sensitive to fuel movement, it's ok when full or nearly full but the needle bounces around as the level drops. That's why I have got a spare....

bolly · #15 Post by **bolly** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:57 pm

thanks much for the info Alan_Kiwi!!

500 Two-Stroke Tech

RZV 500 fuel level sending unit.

RZV 500 fuel level sending unit.

Thanks fellas!

Good work

Thanks for the info

RZV500R Fuel Gauge Sender