Hose Tail Brass Fitting for Check Valve Replacement

[V4 Stroker]

Been told these fit the pump so you can remove the OEM check valves and then fit some replacement check valves further down the oil lines

https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.u ... KmS9mGOVl4

[Mike Cichetti]

You can leave the original valves in place and just add the new ones in the tubing.

[rd84]

Hi Mike,

This needs care though - I've had the OEm valves seize in both the open and closed positions.

Cheers
Paul

[rz500guytexas]

I have been using inline valves since putting bike together and nothing but track time. The OEM ones are still installed but if those adapters will work why not remove the stock valves? I would have taken mine out if i could have located those and they fit. My issue with the stock check valves is cracking. I have had two or three crack in the brass outer body and they leak. I never could figure where the staining was coming from until I pulled them and you could see the cracks with a magnifying glass. If you are in there now it would be something you will not have to fix in the future. Be careful you do not over tighten the fittings.

[rd84]

I have been using inline valves since putting bike together and nothing but track time. The OEM ones are still installed but if those adapters will work why not remove the stock valves? I would have taken mine out if i could have located those and they fit. My issue with the stock check valves is cracking. I have had two or three crack in the brass outer body and they leak. I never could figure where the staining was coming from until I pulled them and you could see the cracks with a magnifying glass. If you are in there now it would be something you will not have to fix in the future. Be careful you do not over tighten the fittings.

I've found the OEM valves to be very fragile as well - particulalry when removing and re-installing - I think new in-line valves and the brass adaptors are now the best solution.

Cheers
Paul

[Mike Cichetti]

I’ve seen a few crack as well. I think removing the old ones is an excellent idea. It also eliminates any chance of the old one sticking closed. As always great ideas from club members.

[rd84]

I’ve seen a few crack as well. I think removing the old ones is an excellent idea. It also eliminates any chance of the old one sticking closed. As always great ideas from club members.

Quite scary that they can crack - I’m sure totally new Yamaha valves and the new connectors is the best and safest solution.

Cheers
Paul

[lost1750GTV]

There was a post on here with the plastic and steel in line valves - I opted for the steel as figured they would be less prone to stuff like that.
Haven't installed them yet though - diameter of the barbs looks kinda big and so my concern has been cracking the hoses in the process.need warm weather and the hair dryer i think.

[rz500guytexas]

I used the plastic ones. Just do one at a time so you do not cross them. I do not think it will make a difference but each line is dedicated to a specific cylinder. Yamaha must of had a reason for it. When I put new lines on I double checked they were correct. There is a picture somewhere on this forum with diagram. Let us know how the barbed fitting worked. Did you use the spring type original clamps or small zip ties to secure the lines?

[rd84]

I’ll let you know how I get on with the new bits - previously I’ve used the spring clips - I’ve got the diagram you mention thanks