bleed brakes

[shergar]

any tips on handy way to bleed front brakes hassel free ?

[silverstrom]

I don't think a hassle free method exists. There is the good old slow way or a vacuum pump.

[Speed Freak]

https://www.amazon.de/Bremsenentl%C3%BC ... ive&sr=1-3

It`s just a "pressurized bottle" up to 2bar.
The hose is at the bottom of the tank so the fresh fluid is pushed into the reservoir when you open the bleeding screw, no refilling is required.

The only thing you need is an air tight adapter for the brake master cylinder.
You can use a spare cover or just use a flat piece of metal, a piece of rubber and a (small) standard connector for air hoses.

Really nice if the brake lines are empty.
You can push 3l fluid thru the system without stopping and refilling where air bubbles can go back upwards in the system.
You can open all bleed screws at the same time to have flow in every part of the system.
You don`t ruin your brake master cylinder seal.

Also available in a smaller version but in my opinion it`s too expensive for what it is.
It works with a tire as a pressure supply.
https://www.amazon.de/Honhill-Auto-Brem ... ive&sr=1-4

[silverstrom]

I have a pressurized kit. I haven't tried it yet.

When you get to the end and still have a little air you can tie the brake lever back to the bar overnight. That usually takes care of the rest.

[Speed Freak]

I have not used mine on a bike.
But I have used it for my car and there it was really nice.

Changed the brake fluid together with the wheels.
Just take the wheel off, open the bleed screw, close it, mout the wheel... That`s it.

[Spag]

I saw this on youtube. Connect it to the front brake master cylinder and when the air bubbles migrate up the brake line, just crack off the nipple and it will let the air out of the line.

https://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/hl-171022_5

[shergar]

so why is the anti dive system connected to the brake caliper with a brake pipe ? which do i bleed brakes from the anti nipple or the caliper nipple sorry bit stupid on this im afraid , ta

[Speed Freak]

Both...

General rule is to bleed the position first which has the longest way to the master cylinder, start with the andi-dive unit.

Inside the anto-dive unit there is a small piston which is operated by the pressure in the brake lines.
This piston is linked to a spring loaded valve which closes the oil flow over the anti-dive unit => the fork damping gets harder.

Disadvantage... You ruin the feeling of the brake lever with this system.
Basically it`s the same feeling as an air bubble in the system.

[Raulcito]

I,ve just done my brakes so I thought I,d share my method.
1 Read as much as you can on these fantastic forums.
2 Allow yourself time to do the job ,it can be done in half an hour but allow half a day that way no rushing and no chewed nuts,ouch!
3 Everything clean as a whistle before you start.
4 clear plastic tube and a container as tight as poss fit without having to fight to get it on the nipple
5 fill mc with fluid.
Open nipple on anti dive on lh side pump lever until clear liquid comes through ,may take a while if whole system has been drained for service.
6 do same on lh caliper.
7 do same on rh side anti dive and caliper.Making sure fluid level does not bottom out .
8 Fill reservoir full and place lid
9 Unscrew master cylinder and raise so handle is vertical,pump a couple of times ,leave for a minute or two in that position.
10 If you,re lucky you will now have good pressure if not dont worry the air will have moved upwards
11 Refit mc ,now I always like to crack the mc banjo and pump a bit through.Retighten and take cap off mc and do little pumps with the lever,you should now see a bucket full of air escaping.Keep doing this until all air is out and lever firms up.Dont do big pumps (or your misses will complain ) or fluid could fly out!
12 Now you have pressure bleed as normal starting at lh antidive ,lh caliper then rh anti and caliper.
Thats how I did it and I now have brakes.Great site.