Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
Moderator: rztom
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
yes I like the concept of better brakes. It almost looks like a modified gsxr frame, but I would prefer body work to hide the engine. "A sleeper"
1985 RG500(Walter Wolfe)
1984 IT490
1985 RZV500R
1997 VFR750
1992 FZR1000
RGV500
TZR500
TZR350
1990 RZ350
1971 Porsche911S
1984 IT490
1985 RZV500R
1997 VFR750
1992 FZR1000
RGV500
TZR500
TZR350
1990 RZ350
1971 Porsche911S
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
Sure we have big regulations about the noise, if the police will stop me and measure, bad. But the regulation more based on new bikes.
Up from the `90s it became more strict and again more strike up from 2002 about pollution.
That’s the reason, why I registered my Vdue backwards to 2001, but bought her in 2006.
But our police in the town is fair. Sheriff know me, his house is across the street.
Oh big work. GSXR frame, DUC fork, R6 swing arm at the rear. Not my favourite, the old GSXR frame is general too high.
But sure a really nice work.
Up from the `90s it became more strict and again more strike up from 2002 about pollution.
That’s the reason, why I registered my Vdue backwards to 2001, but bought her in 2006.
But our police in the town is fair. Sheriff know me, his house is across the street.
Oh big work. GSXR frame, DUC fork, R6 swing arm at the rear. Not my favourite, the old GSXR frame is general too high.
But sure a really nice work.
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
So, back to the RD
After changing the cylinder heat gasket and assembly of the new control unit the first quick ride is done.
No water overflow of the radiator anymore.
Temperature is good, around 60°C.
Changed the ignition curve up from the middle and the PV opening also changed to bit later and complete open also later.
Power looks increased but a torque hole at approx. 6000 to 7500prm.
The only thing, what is not working well is the original rpm meter.
Goes up to 8000rpm without any problem and then it´s dropping down.
But the engine rpm is going straight up.
After changing the cylinder heat gasket and assembly of the new control unit the first quick ride is done.
No water overflow of the radiator anymore.
Temperature is good, around 60°C.
Changed the ignition curve up from the middle and the PV opening also changed to bit later and complete open also later.
Power looks increased but a torque hole at approx. 6000 to 7500prm.
The only thing, what is not working well is the original rpm meter.
Goes up to 8000rpm without any problem and then it´s dropping down.
But the engine rpm is going straight up.
Last edited by 3XV on Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
That's suspicious.
What does the handheld say? Rpm drops, too, or does it show more than 8k ?
If it's the first, you have homework (checking wiring, programming, pick-up clearance, ...)
If it's the second, try to connect the tach-in (grey on tach, black/yellow in wiring harness) to one HT coil primary side (orange)
Concerning the torque from 6-7.5k.
- start PV opening after 7.5k ?
- try if a slightly open PV (5-25%) in that range makes it any better?
- carb setup in that range (idle jet, idle air jet, needle and needle jet)
What does the handheld say? Rpm drops, too, or does it show more than 8k ?
If it's the first, you have homework (checking wiring, programming, pick-up clearance, ...)
If it's the second, try to connect the tach-in (grey on tach, black/yellow in wiring harness) to one HT coil primary side (orange)
Concerning the torque from 6-7.5k.
- start PV opening after 7.5k ?
- try if a slightly open PV (5-25%) in that range makes it any better?
- carb setup in that range (idle jet, idle air jet, needle and needle jet)
Bye
Martin
Martin
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
Hm, for the torque hole it´s my fault, forget to save the data.
It´s in the moment 6200rpm start opening and 100% opened at 8000rpm.
Ignition is set to:
19° 2000rpm, 29° 3500rpm, 18° 9000rpm, 13° 11000rpm, 12° 12000rpm
The setting of the carbs is still original, no time for try outs.
TM35/1: main jet 350, pilot jet 20.
I connected the yellow/green cable from CU to the rpm meter, as Borut told me.
With the original CU no issue.
Had no chance to do the testing with the handheld, shit weather today.
It´s in the moment 6200rpm start opening and 100% opened at 8000rpm.
Ignition is set to:
19° 2000rpm, 29° 3500rpm, 18° 9000rpm, 13° 11000rpm, 12° 12000rpm
The setting of the carbs is still original, no time for try outs.
TM35/1: main jet 350, pilot jet 20.
I connected the yellow/green cable from CU to the rpm meter, as Borut told me.
With the original CU no issue.
Had no chance to do the testing with the handheld, shit weather today.
Last edited by 3XV on Sat Mar 10, 2018 2:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
Set the PV to the values I proposed and enjoy a healthy torque curve.
The yellow green cable holds the voltage at the capacitor that is discharging through the primary side of the HT coil. Usually it should work with the stock tach.
I just can repeat my advice to get a cheap oscilloscope in this case with a 1:10 or 1:100 tip. (the range is 50V, with a 1:10 it showing the voltage with a factor of 0.1 which means you can go up to 500V with a 1:10)
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B01MAWKEU ... _mk_de_DE=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1520699092&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Oszilloskop&psc=1
Or if you want to make the 6h trip, feel free to drop in and we'll see what I can debug for you.
The yellow green cable holds the voltage at the capacitor that is discharging through the primary side of the HT coil. Usually it should work with the stock tach.
I just can repeat my advice to get a cheap oscilloscope in this case with a 1:10 or 1:100 tip. (the range is 50V, with a 1:10 it showing the voltage with a factor of 0.1 which means you can go up to 500V with a 1:10)
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B01MAWKEU ... _mk_de_DE=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1520699092&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Oszilloskop&psc=1
Or if you want to make the 6h trip, feel free to drop in and we'll see what I can debug for you.
Bye
Martin
Martin
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
I went for a short ride.
Changed also the PV setting a few times. But no big difference.
I think first I have to modify the main jets. According to the EGT she is running to rich.
Throttle fulled open at high rpm only 490°C at the lower cylinders and 480°C at the upper.
If I close than the throttle shortly and open again it is going up to 510-520°C.
At the correct setting with my 250 is the temperature 720°C.
Distance from the outlet port is the same 13cm.
For checking the rpm with the handle tester was no time, started raining.
I also think, that at least one of my carbs is over flooding.
As I put her at the side-stand the rpm dropped down dramatically.
Changed also the PV setting a few times. But no big difference.
I think first I have to modify the main jets. According to the EGT she is running to rich.
Throttle fulled open at high rpm only 490°C at the lower cylinders and 480°C at the upper.
If I close than the throttle shortly and open again it is going up to 510-520°C.
At the correct setting with my 250 is the temperature 720°C.
Distance from the outlet port is the same 13cm.
For checking the rpm with the handle tester was no time, started raining.
I also think, that at least one of my carbs is over flooding.
As I put her at the side-stand the rpm dropped down dramatically.
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
So after 1 week in USA I did a new jetting (main jets) at the right cylinders and went for a test ride.
upper 340 and lower 330 instead of original 350.
To compare the EGT LH and RH.
That was the plan.
After 2 KM the engine stopped.
Also no moving of the YPVS after ignition on.
Shit. Not want I expected
By the way, if somebody will travel to USA near Birmingham, go to the Barbers museum.
So many cool bikes.
upper 340 and lower 330 instead of original 350.
To compare the EGT LH and RH.
That was the plan.
After 2 KM the engine stopped.
Also no moving of the YPVS after ignition on.
Shit. Not want I expected
By the way, if somebody will travel to USA near Birmingham, go to the Barbers museum.
So many cool bikes.
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Last edited by 3XV on Sat Mar 31, 2018 3:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
Just an electrical problem perhaps? A blown fuse or loose connector?
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
I was also hoping, that only a fuse is gone,
But all of them were okay.
The Zeeltronic CU is gone.
The handheld tester shows only blue screen.
I´m not able to show pictures, getting the message:
“Sorry the board attachment quota has been reached.”
What does it mean, quantity of pictures or size?
But all of them were okay.
The Zeeltronic CU is gone.
The handheld tester shows only blue screen.
I´m not able to show pictures, getting the message:
“Sorry the board attachment quota has been reached.”
What does it mean, quantity of pictures or size?
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
First I'd verify it's really a faulty CDI and not your wiring.
Unplug the box and connect +/-12V from the battery to the right cables (red and black usually).
If the handheld does not show anything, then it's in fact a defect.
Usually Borut should return you a working unit if you send it back.
If it works, you need to check your wiring...
The attachment quota means you have a "budget" of disc space for all your attachments. If you exceed it, you cannot upload any new pic.
Solutions:
- Get the admin to change your quota
- Delete unnecessary pics
- Maybe replace pics with resized pics of smaller size.
- Use an own image hosting service and work with IMG tags to show them in the text
Unplug the box and connect +/-12V from the battery to the right cables (red and black usually).
If the handheld does not show anything, then it's in fact a defect.
Usually Borut should return you a working unit if you send it back.
If it works, you need to check your wiring...
The attachment quota means you have a "budget" of disc space for all your attachments. If you exceed it, you cannot upload any new pic.
Solutions:
- Get the admin to change your quota
- Delete unnecessary pics
- Maybe replace pics with resized pics of smaller size.
- Use an own image hosting service and work with IMG tags to show them in the text
Bye
Martin
Martin
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
The CU is gone.
Sent already a mail to Borut.
With the original CUs is everything fine.
Sent already a mail to Borut.
With the original CUs is everything fine.
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Last edited by 3XV on Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
That´s how I connected the Zeeltronic PDCI-24V.
The only thing what is strange, was that I had to loop O/B and GR.
because the CU was set to "NO TPS".
The only thing what is strange, was that I had to loop O/B and GR.
because the CU was set to "NO TPS".
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- zeeltronic anschluss.jpg (27.96 KiB) Viewed 2129 times
Last edited by 3XV on Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
How exactly did you connect the kill switch on the handlebar?
Is red/white still connected to the generator and you just spliced in the connection to the Zeel?
If yes, then it was the reason for your failure as red/white is the middle of the source coil that still produces a few hundred volts.
If you connect that to a point of the Zeel that is not supposed to have a voltage input, you likely killed it on your own ...
Is red/white still connected to the generator and you just spliced in the connection to the Zeel?
If yes, then it was the reason for your failure as red/white is the middle of the source coil that still produces a few hundred volts.
If you connect that to a point of the Zeel that is not supposed to have a voltage input, you likely killed it on your own ...
Bye
Martin
Martin
Re: Race outfit RD 500 (Abe #9)
Oh, you are right,
I measured the connection of the source-coils and the stop-switch.
Shit.
I expected a normal star-connection of the 3 source-coils like at the normal alternator (no ground connection at the central point).
But you are right, it will make no sense to make a grounded stop-switch parallel to the CU if the source-coils will have no connection to ground.
So it looks like I killed the CU.
Thanks for the help.
Shame on me.
I measured the connection of the source-coils and the stop-switch.
Shit.
I expected a normal star-connection of the 3 source-coils like at the normal alternator (no ground connection at the central point).
But you are right, it will make no sense to make a grounded stop-switch parallel to the CU if the source-coils will have no connection to ground.
So it looks like I killed the CU.
Thanks for the help.
Shame on me.