I had a manual in English for an RD500 and it was the air suspension on the RZV that caused me grief both removing and replacing the forks. To remove the forks you need to drop them down out of the top yoke but then remove the air suspension black inner tube connectors before the fork can be slid out of gthe lower yoke. I am guessing mine had been in place for 30 years and the twin rubber o rings that seal them were baked onto the tube. penetrating oil above and below and rotating them backwards and forwards is the way to do it. Don't try hammering the fork down through the lower yoke so it pushes the connector up - didn't shift it all - possibly due to the hidden metal locating clip which fits in a groove on the inner tube. Eventually they can be slid up the inner tube. They are too tight to rotate intially by hand so removing all connections gives you a threaded hole to work with - ideally screw in a bolt. These threads are in alloy and delicate so don't just ram a screw driver in however tempting. I didn't have a bolt so had to make do with molegrips which marked the connectors more than I would have liked.
When you reassemble the forks to the bike make sure the left hand connector locates with the pin under the handlebar. Otherwise you will have to undo everything again to slip down the forks so you can get it right !
Getting the damper piston retaining bolt out from the bottom of the fork is tricky. A normal Allen socket won't fit so you a need a long and good quality Allen key and a tube to fit on the short end. With old loctite and fork grunge it is hellish tight and before you even need to think about holding the damper rod massive torque is necessary to shift it. In an ideal world you would have an air tool and the special allen socket avalble from yambits.Anyway eventually it starts to shift and you need to retain the damper piston way down inside. Lots of different ways to do this on here including broom handles, tubes with nuts welded on and even a sockets nicked from an oil filter removal tool.
This is my tool which worked great and can be made up using stuff in your garage.
To hold the piston it uses the outside hexagon of an 18mm box spanner. this has the same profile as a 23mm AF nut that some have used.When a socket is put on the other end it's too big to go inside the fork so using two box spanners, one inside the other, then taped together, and a socket on the small end did the trick. The tape just stops the box spanners sliding apart when locating into the piston - it is the fitting inside each other that gives the purchase for turning..
For pressing in the new seals I bought a piece of 1.5inch ABS pipe which are made to standardized dimensions. This fits over the seal and inside the outer fork body very snuggly. I cut a 5 mm slot out of the old seal and used this a soft piece between the pipe and new seal. The slot is necessary so you can flip it out of the seal housing when the new seal is fully home. Using red rubber grease on the outside of the new seal and with the tube on the floor pressing down with the fork upside down made for a very easy push fit with no hammering. You can feel when it's home and also this is verified when you next put the final spring clip above it and it just fits into it's groove.
First time I've had forks apart and very satisfying to do it yourself taking lots of time over cleaning the innards etc that you might not get in a shop.
Hope this helps someone
cheers
David
Ps remember you have to refit the antidive unit before you pour in your expensive new fork oil. Oh how I laughed.....
