Just under 2 years ago, when I set out to restore my 500, I managed to get an alloy chassis from Japan, for what seemed like a good price.
It's been put to use and it seems like a good item, straight, even if it had quite a bit of those small chip-like corrosion bits. After stripping and re-anodising they are still there, but it looks good.
Anyway, I noticed half way up the left rail that leads to the rear subframe, it has these numbers stamped in - does anyone know what they could mean?
Please don't tell me that's how much it bent by
Japanese Chassis with markings
Moderator: rztom
Japanese Chassis with markings
Last edited by s4oz on Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Japanese Chassis with markings
While I don't know what the numbers are for, you say the frame is in use so if it is bent you would generally know, fairings not fitting well, visually askew/kinked, handling issues etc. Have you checked the alignment yet to see if the headstock or frame is twisted, the front wheel would be closer to the lines on one side.
This happened to me, bike handled fine though I hadn't pushed it hard to that point so I don't know if handling issues would have popped up at speed in corners.
This happened to me, bike handled fine though I hadn't pushed it hard to that point so I don't know if handling issues would have popped up at speed in corners.
Re: Japanese Chassis with markings
Can't help you with the numbers, but I have a RZV frame and I'm trying to decide if I should strip and re-anodize it. When you did yours did you have to drill out all the steel inserts or was it possible to mask them?
Thanks,
jason
Thanks,
jason
Re: Japanese Chassis with markings
Reanodising is a two step process.
The first is acid dipping to remove old anodising. This requires the removal of all rivnuts, it's easy, they drill out. Make sure you also remove the steering bearing races and the frame is very clean. Any rubber or plastic left on it will melt and stain permanently.
Second step is to reanodise. Before that I used 3m scratch pads to get the same brushed finish of the original. Anodising colour is something you choose. I believe mine came out very close to original, without the yellowness of 20 plus years of exposure. That was the major benefit of the process.
The first is acid dipping to remove old anodising. This requires the removal of all rivnuts, it's easy, they drill out. Make sure you also remove the steering bearing races and the frame is very clean. Any rubber or plastic left on it will melt and stain permanently.
Second step is to reanodise. Before that I used 3m scratch pads to get the same brushed finish of the original. Anodising colour is something you choose. I believe mine came out very close to original, without the yellowness of 20 plus years of exposure. That was the major benefit of the process.