Pipe repair

All former posts from our original WWWBoard forum are here

Moderators: smurph, rztom

Locked
Message
Author
Jason

Pipe repair

#1 Post by Jason » Thu Sep 29, 2005 1:26 pm

Anybody know a shop in the Toronto area that can take the dent out of a stock chamber? Welding, etc. <p>Thanks!<p>
<br>
<br><hr size=3 width=75%><p>


jmellen@sympatico.ca

Ed Dabrowski

Re: Pipe repair

#2 Post by Ed Dabrowski » Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:29 pm

Toronto? Nope. But after having a crazed dog come outta nowhere in a parking lot lately (@$#% thing ran right under my front tire, I swear!), I've got a similar need. Now I've got a little booboo down by the rear brake pedal. By little, I mean a kiss about the size of a dime -- certainly not a hole the size of a toonie! Anyways, after rubbing a little oil on 'em all these years, I hate to admit it but I'm not the only one in my garage to notice they ain't perfect anymore. Anyone know of a metal shop in Western Canada that can help in making my set of one-off, late '80's Wolf steel sheet pipes perfect again?
<br>
<br><hr size=3 width=75%><p>


edmundoh@gmail.com

Scott

Re: Pipe repair

#3 Post by Scott » Sun Oct 02, 2005 9:43 am

I posted a similar question on another board, reply:<br>"We do alot of that here at Pro6"<p>That is Pro6 Cycle on Kipling, right by the subway station. I haven't tried them yet, so can't offer an endorsement.<p>Scott
<br>
<br><hr size=3 width=75%><p>


ssmacdon@hotmail.com

ChrisZ

Re: Pipe repair

#4 Post by ChrisZ » Mon Oct 03, 2005 4:16 pm

Jason,<br> If you want to try it yourself: I had damage to repair on my TC right lower chamber a few months ago. The cause of it is actually kind of funny, but I'm sure many have similar stories. Anyhow, the damage amounted to an approx. 2" by 4" oval shaped flat spot. I decided to try the repair as bodymen do, by brazing a small stud to the damaged area and pulling out the dent by placing contoured pieces of wood on both sides of the stud (to match the pipe contour), then laying a piece of wood across them(with a hole drilled through it to allow it to go over the stud). Then, threaded a nut onto the stud. Once the nut contacts the wood, the energy of threading it on will now begin to pull out the dent. In my case, I had to braze it onto about 25 different locations within the dent area to bring the pipe back to original contour. Brazing was chosen as it allows one to attach the stud to the pipe without putting too much heat into the pipe, such as fusion welding would. I do not have any "spot" welding equipment for this job, but a bodyshop would if you know of one you trust. There are some brazing alloys out there that have a melting point within the capabilities of the hardware store variety propane torch. Just make sure your pipe is free of combustibles if you try it or send it out. Some light follow up work with a body hammer might be in order, as the original damage as well as the repair likely caused some stretching of the pipe metal. Some helpful metal working info can be found on Eastwood.com as well as tinmantech.com. Hope my explanation wasn't too abstract.
<br>
<br><hr size=3 width=75%><p>


czracerx@yahoo.com

Ken Smith

Re: Pipe repair

#5 Post by Ken Smith » Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:26 am

Can't give a name of a shop. But here's a trick we do. Cap of end of pipe (each end) I use a plug on the small hole and make one for the ft. The ft one has a valve stem in it. After you have the pipe ends sealed up you put in a little air pressure, about 5 lbs. Then heat the ding with a torch when the metal gets soft the air pressure pushes out the ding. Some fellows have good luck with doing the same thing but using CO2 it shrinks the metal and pops the ding, and you don't get the heat mark on the pipe. Hope this helps.
<br>
<br><hr size=3 width=75%><p>


RDRZRGTZR@att.net

Locked